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Hi ED,
Although I didn't check, I'm quite sure its 48 Imperial pitch. Asso man verified my feeling its an MIP diff so I assume as a US company they would lean into Imperial sizes. Since it probably came bundled with the final pinion it wouldn't have mattered what the other tranny gears pitch is.

I'm counting teeth now...
ok: 56. The center hole diameter is the same as a standard spur

Stormer racing got more of these thorp conversions on stock (so does the crp webshop: but they are more expensive.)

If you can't find the stuff for MIP, ... I'll let you know if I get lucky and find the thorp stuff to complete it.
I guess you're not ready to part with one of the outer sets you have from trinity?

Maybe we should just bolt Stealth transmissions into our ultima. I remeber at least one guy doing that back in time.

OK, I counted mine, 56T as well. I guess neither company wanted to change the final drive ratio... I looked at Stormer but couldn't find the Thorp conversion, can you provide a link?
Sorry about the spur gear sets, but I do have long term plans for them

Stealth trany is no good, its a slippery slope that starts there and ends in me running a B4 instead of the Ultima... I believe the Triumph trany is a direct bolt on, but they're hard to get and to maintain.

Snake Plissken wrote: Stealth trany is no good, its a slippery slope that starts there and ends in me running a B4 instead of the Ultima... I believe the Triumph trany is a direct bolt on, but they're hard to get and to maintain.

Triumph beltbox doesn't run all that well I heard here.
Luckily I have an A&L, though I'm scared for the small pitch of its belt.


I already have trucks with plenty asso parts, I guess I don't care for purity much

What is the Thorp conversion y'all are talking about?

RichieRich wrote:What is the Thorp conversion y'all are talking about?

it's a ball diff and final pinion gears in 48 pitch, should make the Ultima trany super smooth.

Oh, that sounds much better than the stock configuration with the 32 pitch gears. Where can I get one of these?

RichieRich wrote:Oh, that sounds much better than the stock configuration with the 32 pitch gears. Where can I get one of these?

That's where the problem kicks in.
I found that stormer hobbies still has some material on stock, but it is not complete.
What they have is the upgrade set for the Thorp ball diff. It includes only 2 gears: the top gear and the center gear of the diff. The other parts should be taken from a standard thorp ball diff for the ultima. So I'm now looking for those parts too.

(I have the kyosho balldiff NIP for the Ultima but the center gear is not exchangeable with the thorp one)

Here's the link for stormer hobbies: dang, there were 2 left in stock after I rodered mine, seems they're gone now
If you got or find the other stuff needed, I can sell you mine.

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=RRPB3005
2 adjustable rear ends left from robinson racing, run, run

OK, mounted the carbon chassis on my vintage racer, so thought I'd share a few pics. I used a fiberglass plate as an upper brace/battery straps anchor/ESC tray which makes the entire assembly VERY rigid. I used Associated chassis protector on the underside to avoid scratches. The original front shock tower broke in a bad landing, so I used it as a template to make the new one from carbon fibre, you can see it in the last pic.

Cool!
Very nice you could fit that butterfly body still.

The rear looks a bit narrow with the lower offset wheels.
Did you take a look at the new ultima or lazer CVD's and hubs yet?
I'm pretty sure you can use those to bring it up to the legal 250mm.

Mr. ED wrote: The rear looks a bit narrow with the lower offset wheels.
Did you take a look at the new ultima or lazer CVD's and hubs yet?
I'm pretty sure you can use those to bring it up to the legal 250mm.

I'm trying to keep it as period correct as possible but still remain competitive, The 2.2'' wheels & tires where a must since I didn't know of any vintage tire that would give the traction of the M3 Bowties on the track (and vintage tires are quite expensive for everyday run anyways). I don't feel the smaller rear width hinders the performance (and I'm racing against RC10 CE & Worlds!) so I'll keep it original for the time being.

I'm using some tamiya wide wheel axles om mine. They just fit straight into the standard hubs and use hexes with a crosspin. The axles are longer and the hexes about 2 times thicker than the standard ones.
I think they are F201's option parts (not sure about the number)