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Re: The ideal vintage RC10 track racer

Posted: Thu May 10, 2012 10:41 am
by Lonestar
I think that's an intesting project... that will end up in something that is anything but "the very best Vintage RC10 buggy possible", simply because you've had the best of the best refining that platform for 10yrs to make it what it became in the end... And a few of the recipes you're mentionning (cantilevers, trailing arms, double-deckers) have proven suboptimal in the past 30 yrs of offroad racing and simply been dropped by mfr's since. There's a reason why all 2wd cars (at least the rear motor ones) have a similar architecture in 2012 :)

Will follow closely though as it's always cool to see a bespoke car :mrgreen:

Paul

Re: The ideal vintage RC10 track racer

Posted: Thu May 10, 2012 2:03 pm
by Charlie don't surf
fredswain wrote:The RC10 was 30 degrees. Cars have varied over the years. The JRX2 was originally 20 degrees and then later 30. The RC10B4 is 25 degrees. It is my personal opinion that 30 is too much but that's just me.
Why, what do you notice with the 30deg versus the 25deg?

Re: The ideal vintage RC10 track racer

Posted: Thu May 10, 2012 2:53 pm
by jon burrows
I've noticed my cars take concrete curbs much better @ 30 deg.

Re: The ideal vintage RC10 track racer

Posted: Thu May 10, 2012 3:28 pm
by MotoObscura
Lonestar wrote:I think that's an intesting project... that will end up in something that is anything but "the very best Vintage RC10 buggy possible", simply because you've had the best of the best refining that platform for 10yrs to make it what it became in the end... And a few of the recipes you're mentionning (cantilevers, trailing arms, double-deckers) have proven suboptimal in the past 30 yrs of offroad racing and simply been dropped by mfr's since. There's a reason why all 2wd cars (at least the rear motor ones) have a similar architecture in 2012 :)

Will follow closely though as it's always cool to see a bespoke car :mrgreen:

Paul
I'm just experimenting. I have little experience with tuning buggies, and even less racing, but I think this is a great opertunity to really look into what makes a good chassis, and what makes a mediocre chassis. I realize it might not be best on the track, but I'd like to try things like trailing arms and cantilevers to find out exactly why they are no good on the track.

So we'll see. Like I said, I mainly want to experiment.

So far I have an a stamp chassis, lots of duratrax Evader suspension and transmission parts, and lots of hacked half ass engineering skills. I'm gonna work on building a jig to turn this chassis into a mold to lay fiberglass, and eventually carbon fiber. I'm thinking I'll split the difference and go with 25 degrees for the front kick up.