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That is one nice looking motor.
Epoxy sounds good, def the 30 min kind.

diff cleaning from an original build w/purple losi old school diff lube is no easy task....you gotta get in there. that stuff dries out...cakes ups....proposes friction, even so you may still need new balls: goodies: epoxy shock perch inner corners+new orings: chassis not finalized: upcoming diff rebuild+new balls+lube: will list new expenses shortly....what r u gonna do???? u gotta spend....

Shipping included.
A-4016 Diff balls 15.00
A-3022 Slipper shaft pinion gear 5.00
A-3122 Slipper shaft 9.00
Dual slipper clutch assembly 7.00
Beat up runner body 7.00
6591 Silicone Diff lube 2.50
6588 Black grease lube 2.50
Losi 35wt shock oil 4.00

Total $52.00
Grand total $387.00

A-4016 Diff balls 15.00

You could probably find those cheaper at many places, no reason to use the Losi parts, size is all that matters

I am gonna guess you meant a-3120 and not a-3122.
Because a-3122 is the slipper back plate and a-3120 is the shaft. Since you said you went dual slipper route then the backing plate wouldn't be required.
Of course your picture shows it in the background as a3120. So really I am just messing with you. hehe
Nice project, making me want to work on my beat up Kyosho ProX and Losi GTX.

start with 30 wt modern oil, thats what's in my x2 and she handles great.
the old losi oil is weird, stick with new stuff.

Repair w/epoxy rear underside chassis before and after pics: Front end I've been plotting and wrestling with mock up dress up: It went a lot better than I thought but still needs a few tweaks for perfection. I had to come up with my own front axles becuz I really want to run vintage Losi Jr wheels....but do plan to at a later stage probably go to 2.2 all the way around...but for now I want the vintage 5 spokes and didn't want to change that part of the plan.

This pretty much blew me out of being a budget build but I will try and post up all costs soon. I did initially want it to be strictly budget but along the way this hybrid setup became desirable and well it just got the best of me...so i just went for it. And so some of these upgrades are more luxury than budget build. But if you consider parts availability to not be a problem anytime soon...it can be argued.
Still all Losi.

Are you getting any weird camber change through the travel of those arms? (the upper camber link is very far from parallel to the arm is why I ask.) Also, are you going to be able to stay within buggy dimensions with those arms? (they are TLR22 pieces right?)

Good job on thinking outside the box!

yeah, with the upper links like that, it should operate almost like a grasshopper front end

taking a closer look at your pictures, you have some kind of plate bolted to the front bulkhead to pick up the upper link balls, it looks like you can probably just make a taller plate, and put the links more or less parallel. At least, maybe you can flip that thing over to raise the balls up a little?

losiXXXman wrote:Are you getting any weird camber change through the travel of those arms? (the upper camber link is very far from parallel to the arm is why I ask.) Also, are you going to be able to stay within buggy dimensions with those arms? (they are TLR22 pieces right?)

Good job on thinking outside the box!

Thanks for bringing the camber issue to my attention. I would think it surely has to be a problem...but im going to take a closer look maybe tonight to confirm. I'll have to possibly move the camber brace upward and lift to make it more parallel to maintain it throughout travel. The width should not be too much wider but if it were to go beyond ROAR (which it could)..I would likely look into adapting it's matching front bulkhead...as you pointed out the camber issue it might be the way to go anyway. This is an attempt to make it work with the JR bulkhead. Mainly it seemed possible and I also wanted to see if the steering links would work and they do altho I have not attached a servo yet. But to full blown convert seems possible as well...but the front end piece is definitely shorter on this chassis so I was hesitant to not try it this way first. Wish u were around when I was placing the camber brace!

Yes it is.

jwscab wrote:yeah, with the upper links like that, it should operate almost like a grasshopper front end

taking a closer look at your pictures, you have some kind of plate bolted to the front bulkhead to pick up the upper link balls, it looks like you can probably just make a taller plate, and put the links more or less parallel. At least, maybe you can flip that thing over to raise the balls up a little?

HAHAHA Grasshopper rofl !! that's what I almost bought until I realized it wasn't anywhere near as modular as the Losi JRX2 !! It still a cool looking car/toy!

Flipping it upside down is the plan but I dont think it's going to cut it...I should have posted my before thoughts and asked for advice.

OK so dead parallel should be the goal not maybe higher than the outer ball ends a little? What about when a ride height adjustment is made? I should probably be dialing in a ride height before I attempt a new parallel location....got any recommendations?

the inner link should be AT MOST, parallel and the same length as the lower arm. Never above parallel or longer than the lower arm. Usually this upper link will be slightly shorter than the lower arm, and/or lower than parallel, to give the suspension a negative camber gain(when you compress the shock, the top of the tire will tip in slightly) this will give the best contact patch for the tire as the suspension compresses and the body rolls.

What you have is a little too low. Like I mentioned, if you can make a brace in the front that will bring the inner ball up, I think you will be fine, just don't make it higher than parallel to the lower arm.

jwscab wrote:the inner link should be AT MOST, parallel and the same length as the lower arm. Never above parallel or longer than the lower arm. Usually this upper link will be slightly shorter than the lower arm, and/or lower than parallel, to give the suspension a negative camber gain(when you compress the shock, the top of the tire will tip in slightly) this will give the best contact patch for the tire as the suspension compresses and the body rolls.

What you have is a little too low. Like I mentioned, if you can make a brace in the front that will bring the inner ball up, I think you will be fine, just don't make it higher than parallel to the lower arm.

Hey thanks a lot for that insight.

Ok Im going to take a picture of it turned upside down which I dont think will do it but we'll see.

If that does not work I am thinking I am going to fill in the inner cavity of the bulkhead and redrill.
Is there a measurement I can take or dial into that would be considered perfection as after filling in I'd likely not retouch it.
I guess that might be hard to measure tho since we'd be talking about a certain amount of negative camber gain at full compression. But I can try. I have an angle finder somewhere...might come in handy if pressed flush against the tire while at full compression.

that piece in the front is bolted to the bulkhead right? so make a plate out of fiberglass with a couple of standoffs and mimic the upper link mounting holes on the shock tower, instead of that molded plastic piece.

flip the bulkhead/shock tower 180 degrees (yes, I know, B4 style). You should be able to use the shock tower camber link holes.

my hack paint skilzzz...