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One easy way to tell is that RPM Team Arms have 3 shock mount holes, while RPM Worlds Arms only have 2....even though they're longer.

RPM Team Arms are the same size as stock AE wide arms.

Picture worth 1000 words...
Bottom to top,

AE "short" Arm
AE (CE/Worlds Car) arm
Andy's Wide Arm
RPM "Team Car"
(all the above are generally used with std nose plate)
RPM "Worlds" arm (generally used with a 10T nose)
Jeepz or Dynotech Arms (not shown, but modern production of the RPM "Worlds" arm)
Jeepz SCR8P Special Edition (not shown..only rumored to exist at this point )

(edited). Even use a combination of two different ones if you plan on only turning left .

Sort of, Al.....the dynotech/bigjeepz/rpm worlds arms are wider at the front bulkhead, so they aren't exactly interchangeable.

But that is an AWESOME picture. We should put 'em in the '25 yr' or 'old is new' tech thread for convenience, especially since this is an often asked question.

Also RPM and Dynotech arms are the same length, but bigjeepz arms are longer to correct for the B4 wheel offset without the need of GT axles or B4 caster blocks.

jwscab wrote:Sort of, Al.....the dynotech/bigjeepz/rpm worlds arms are wider at the front bulkhead, so they aren't exactly interchangeable....

Right on. Forgot about that (actually critical) little detail. I had them all laying around so I though I might as well take a pic to clear it all up for some folks.

you can also add the rpm "truck" arms to the list. they're longer than the team arms, but shorter than the worlds arms, and mount directly to the "buggy" arm mounts.

then there's the andy's pro race arms that are the same length as the worlds/dynotech arms, but mount to "buggy" arm mounts or the narrow andy's bulkhead.

My main reason: The ability to use B4 wheels. If you wanna run an RC10, there are no more tires made that fit the stock rims. You can use B3 wheels, but then then those are hard to find. B4 wheels are plentiful so it's not a pain if you need to adjust tires for certain tracks.

or run Thunder Tiger rears and Duratrax fronts just beware the Duratrax fronts are narrow, not the standard "wide" front wheel in use on todays cars.

Y'ernat Al wrote:Picture worth 1000 words...

100_4196.JPG

Bottom to top,

AE "short" Arm
AE (CE/Worlds Car) arm
Andy's Wide Arm
RPM "Team Car"
(all the above are generally used with std nose plate)
RPM "Worlds" arm (generally used with a 10T nose)
Jeepz or Dynotech Arms (not shown, but modern production of the RPM "Worlds" arm)
Jeepz SCR8P Special Edition (not shown..only rumored to exist at this point )

(edited). Even use a combination of two different ones if you plan on only turning left .

OK, now I know what I'm running. lol

RichieRich wrote:My main reason: The ability to use B4 wheels. If you wanna run an RC10, there are no more tires made that fit the stock rims. You can use B3 wheels, but then then those are hard to find. B4 wheels are plentiful so it's not a pain if you need to adjust tires for certain tracks.

Without trying to sound sarcastic I am aware of that lol

I have B4 steering blocks, Axles, and C-Hubs already on both my vehicles.

abailey21 wrote:..Without trying to sound sarcastic I am aware of that lol

I have B4 steering blocks, Axles, and C-Hubs already on both my vehicles.

Sorry about the diversion there. I learned a lot by building this long armed beast I called Outside the Boxart and now racing my little stand by Edinger RC10. I've learned there are 100 things that affect how the front works, and most are more important than how wide it is.

To begin with:

Shock springs
Shock pistons and oil wt.
Shaft and body length and external/internal limiters
Shock mount positions - (on the tower, as well as on the arm)
camber link lengths and vertical position on the inward and outward ends relative to the arm hinge pins
caster block angles
kickup
bump steer (in/out/or neutral)
bell crank positions and lever lengths (very different between the RC10 buggy, the 10T and the b4 for example)
steering blocks (inline v. trailing and arm lever length)
axle lengths (relative to the king pins)
wheel offset
tire tread width and shape
and the list goes on.

With the OIN builds, you'll need to be able to play with some or all of the above if you care about performance.

If you just want to bash with it or have it on a shelf looking cool, mixing in the readily available parts is the way to go. That's what Richie Rich's getting at. The B4 wheels are pretty easy to get, so might as well spread it out to handle the offset easier Although with all the hex wheels coming now, that too will change .