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Toaster wrote:I wasn't able to get to my local hobby store to check out Lipo pack sizes for measurements but it is an really interesting idea

Keep up the good work, and check internet for things like: "Dimensions: 96mmX47mmX25mm"

Did you see my hotdog in my gallery? I use the durga body (just a pitty there's no undertray for it)

ed, a lipo wouldn't fit the craddle. unless you milled out the inside area of the craddle. and no, the lipo won't fall through the chassis.

Some inquiring minds (you know who you are ) wanted to know if the magnesium bulkheads fit correctly on the YR4 chassis...

...well sort of, the back bulkhead appears to fit no problem, but the front appears to require shaving down on one side (see pics) where the previous owner started.

Without shaving it down the steering component bump or rub against it...

Are you running two rear bulkheads on this car? It looks like the first and second pic is of the front of the chassis but that bulkhead is a rear bulkhead...that is why you need to grind off the long side to clear the steering. The front bulkhead is even on both sides.

x2

definitely a rear bulkhead in front! You can see the notch for the rear sway bar.

littleVETTE wrote:ed, a lipo wouldn't fit the craddle. unless you milled out the inside area of the craddle. and no, the lipo won't fall through the chassis.

I already expected you'd need to enlarge it, but the question is wheither that leaves engough material. Falling true... I wasn't worrying about as I 'd put a sheet of lexan right under the cells, or copper; if you want some extra weight.

if you do mill away material from the craddles you'll still have enough material to hold the lipos in place. but, for offroad i would look for a similar chassis without the craddles. because they would definitely move around with any hits the chassis would take, and you would have an ill handling buggy. but if you don't have a choice, you could get serrated nuts to hold down the craddles well in place.

you could also check out penguin r/c. he still makes the craddles for this chassis. and could maybe cut you out a set for the lipos.

Are they still in business? I thought their site was the only thing still : be it dorment as the product line only contains hop-ups for very old models.

Mr. ED wrote:Are they still in business? I thought their site was the only thing still : be it dorment as the product line only contains hop-ups for very old models.

I was wondering the very same thing. I've been going to order a set of cradles for my Yokomo, but I don't know if they're still around.

yeah he still in business. i ordered some stuff last month. give him an email if you guys want to ask him a question. brion is a cool guy.

[email protected]

Hey guys, thanks for pointing that out, it was so obvious, can't believe it was overlooked. Might have to shave it down anyways, its already half started

With respect to the Lipo's, I already posted this image in the ebay area but there is a YR4 Type J chassis listed for something like $30 and it already has the drilled out slots to run velcro straps through it, would those be strong/tight enough for lipo packs?

You'll need to get a new bulkhead for the front: the kick-up is wrong with the reversed rear bulkhead.
That chassis's battery slots are the same size as the slots in yours. I don't quite get what your plan is with it?

I think he wants to know if he can use the chassis pictured and just run some straps to hold the LiPo's in.
I would make some sort of cradle (like the one used on the B44) that will provide some latteral stability and then you could use the straps without worrying if they will slide out the sides.

And a second on the front bulkhead it will have the angle going the wrong direction (front of the arms pointing down)

it is possible to get a running off road buggy out of this touring car chassis. as long as you use a solid craddle. and not the stock sliding craddle that came with the touring car. those will snap.

have you considered using the stock plastic yr4 bulkheads? they both have the correct front and rear angles needed. those magnesium bulkheads are notorious for snapping after a good hit.

just in case you didn't get the link to the types of yr-4 m2's, here's the link...

http://www.rcracing.com/Page.cfm?InfoID=846

Get a sheet of the thinnest carbon you can find and top that original chassis of with a new layer without battery slots. If you CA it , it will even be stronger.