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i tend to believe that as well harry, thats how it seems to be with the gear diffs too.

shock shafts finally showed up last night. ill have more pic-turs up tonight

front end is done and let me tell yall, what a pain in the keaster this was! it initially bolted up great, i was really happy with everything, just started out with a slammed setup since i dont have a speedy's front tower in front of me to model off of and the slammed setup is more involved anyway. after i bolted it up i was ready to call it a day and snap some pictures. i was happy with the range of travel, the minimal bump steer, the way it looked. it was perfect...

so then i got really ambitious and tried to rig up the body on the front end.


well issue one, car is wider than the body. after salvaging a set of stock black plastic sledgehammer arms i got it rigged up (again) and i was totally ok with it, a little bit more elbow grease than i had planned for but ok, it all went together reasonably well...



issue two mocked the car up on the left side as i happen to have everything to do just one side and guess what fellers? THE CARS TOO LONG FOR THE BODY! *facepalm*

ya know i was so proud of the 2 entities, the body modding came out fantastic, im so proud of myself for it and ill be taking pictures of it either way for my own sake but its such a shame i cant use it on this car, im gonna have to just knuckle down and buy a molded 10 inch wide late model body now. :thumbdown:

probably going to go with the 10 inch wide LERNERVILLE from mcallister http://www.mcallisterracing.com/index_files/Page364.htm

however i might see about mcallister re-popping a luminator body for me, they still have the molds and its my favorite late model body of all time.


im burned out for the night so yall will get pictures eventually :rolleyes:

harry697 wrote:

klavy69 wrote:

Lonestar wrote:interestingly my trx-1's brand spanking prodiff had the holes drilled in the output shafts already... to be pinned indeed. Thought it was standard

I thought it was also Paul til I got my first NIP proball dif assy. and it had none drilled. My next one had them drilled. you got my curiosity going So I checked 2 of my runners and have one of each. Don't know if either of these are OEM though so that won't tell me anything .
Todd

I'm fairly certain at this point that the ones with holes are newer, so they will work with the newer style drive shaft pins. The older ones don't have them

Indeed the one on the pic I posted was bought NiP like 3yrs ago... could very well be a later production batch. The instruction scan I'm providing was the one that came with it however - looks like they didn't reflect the change

Paul

so here is the front end complete, lighting was terrible no matter what i tried. take bod pictures in the morning since i couldnt get them right at all





can you guess what i made the brackets from?




added a gt body mount bracket to the back of the tower, on both my rc10mid motor and my lto srt i have reoccurring issues with supporting the middle front of the body so this is a bit of proactive thinking.


does not bottom out but its close, more than enough articulation for me.

This is weird... but VERY cool

Paul

no its not, its oval racing.

now jumps and right turns, them some weird stuff

just got off the phone with mcallister racing, they do still have the molds and they will re-pop one. it was 14.95 + shipping. lets see anyone else beat that price!

I went through a great many of those headaches trying to get an HPI '70 AAR 'Cuda body to fit my custom-built Optima chassis for CYANide. That was probably the biggest challenge of that build, narrowing the track at front & rear so that the body fit the wheels like a real car. Most of the VTA cars I see these days--even the RTR ones--look goofy to me, the rear tires are inset way too deep in the rear of the body.

mcallister said to re-pop that luminator i may have to wait a week. 2 days later its in the mail on its way to me from arizona, got it yesterday and then went over to the lhs to buy the rear arms along with some paint.

car is done and its 0230 in the morning! it looks fantastic! pictures in the am before i head to work.

pictures! pictures everywhere!

not the best paintjob ive ever done but its far better than most i do, helps if you've done the same body twice before (dont ask).


my last trx1 decal and oh how good it looks on there


i do not cheat, this spliter is just left clear because, totally in the spirit of the rules......


also low body is LOW


compared to the ltosrt charger body its a good inch lower


yeah yeah i know i still didnt upload pictures of the first body, took them but i want to drag my keaster a little, dont judge me.


here are some completed chassis pictures. also time to spill on the esc ill be running. its a Xcar 35amp, more than enough for this setup. my mmp kinda burned me on fancy pants esc's and since we cant run them in this particular class to begin with i figured ill give the very bottom end esc's a go. plus it was a good deal


airtronics 4 channel, dont need a 4ch rx but i had one and im using it


still working on sorting out the tangle of wires, may drop a rustler rx box in.


so chassis



articulation shots since i know some of yall cant get enough of them. dont know what you'd expect out of an oval car but whatev's







last minute addition is this transponder mount. you know a guy means business when he's sporting a transponder mount


added the final body mounts. rc10gt mounts all around

turned out really nice. When is the inaugural run on it?

Todd

was gonna swing by the track before i head into work but the day got called because of rain. as much calcium as we put down the last few weeks i wouldnt run on that track as wet as it supposedly got. any clay that sticks to the chassis and steel parts will rust and stain to heck. but thats the price you pay down here to get the track as hard and grippy as most racers want it.


personally id just as soon run a loose dirt track like we used to at our old location.


so where was i.... oh yeah...

have off tomorrow and its supposed to bein the low 60's and sunny. racing weather at its best. may also go out wed.

That's weird, and cool...I like the paint job, matching wheels, and the work that obviously went into re-engineering the TRX-1 into a semi-onroad car. I'm sure you encountered many of the same challenges I did when I built CYANide. Nice work!

went by the track today. car ran great, it ought to as slow as the dang thing was

may go up in the right rear 1 spring rate.

also as low as that body was it didnt really catch like i thought it would, if the track was rougher maybe, but not bad as all.

ran a little too much though, broke the lower right front shock mount, made up 2 new ones from kydex.




geared up too. im in the low 5's now but after about 8 minutes the system was barely warm.


@coelacanth, so far this has been smooth sailing, a few minor hiccups but even the home made stuff was easy and simple, the upright tower will be tricky but ive made more than a few shock towers now so i think itll come out fine, almost all the previous ones were done by hand with a drill, this one will be done with a drill press so it shouldnt be too bad especially since that parma 1/16th g10 drills so easy and nice. (can yall tell im confident)

now my lto srt that build was tough, i really really stretched my skills doing that and it still does but im proud of every bit of that car too.

well the car cut its teeth saturday and it was fantastic i cant fault that car in any way.

unfortunately the team driver was pretty bad, we'll probably drop him before the spring season