RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Congratulations on the class championship.

I didn't know they were doing a Vintage class. Are they going to do it again anytime soon? If so then I need to get a move on to get both of mine gong.

Ok, big update here:

As mentioned earlier, TheBigRC.com and I put on a local series and included a vintage class. It was quite the hit, we saw a few older cars that probably hadn't seen the track in 20 years, all of which were fast. There was brushed VS Brushless, Losi VS Associated, and lots of great battles.

The RC10 was the most popular car for sure, with Mo Hille taking the most wins with his RC10 Gold Pan with Kyosho Small Bore shocks.

What was cool about the series is that we didn't frown on updates/backdates, so it was neat to see how the B3 compared to say a JRX. Hands down, the biggest difference to any car was tires, and our results showed that even if a car is 20 years old, with an old AM radio, mechanical speed controller, and an old Trinity 27t, that it can still run with a B3 with modern electronics.

My car has a ton of updates as I usually run Stock Buggy with it. It's so fun to throw the car down, see the heads turn as it makes it's way down the straights and into sweepers. Local pro Dave Ehrlich (IIC, Snowbirds winner, former ROAR National Champion) drove the B3 and said "This is the funnest thing I've driven off-road!"

Here's what's on the car now (In addition to list on Page 1)

-Thunder Tiger top plate (More steering at slower speeds)
-LRP SXX V2 Stock Spec (Lower Board Update)
-Stock B3 body
-B4 Wing (Cheap!)
-Carbon Shock Tower
-Mayor R/C Refinished B4 Top Shaft







It's been a ton of fun racing with this car, I just wish I could've gotten a picture of what it looked like when I started. I built this project to show everyone you don't need the latest and greatest car, batteries, motors, etc, that ANYTHING can be competitive given effort. Thanks to Ebay, I was able to source a lot of parts on the cheap, like the shocks. I've also been buying a lot of B3/T3 parts from the clearance bins at local hobby shops

What's next? Well, I've still got a ton of cool stuff in the works for the B3. I've also got a T3 project I'd really like to start on soon as well And there's a lonely B2 sitting in the garage....maybe time for a new breath of life?

Any updates?

A few coming soon. It's getting a new ESC and Motor combo (Actually used by Ehrlich to TQ and win at the IIC a month ago) as well as some other bits, a good cleaning.

Switched to using losi 56 pistons, liking how the car feels. New track layout has the car unstable a bit at higher speeds, so I think a new wing is in order.

Headed to the track now to play with it some more and see if I can get it hooked up right.

Have played a lot with settings on the car lately. Experimenting with things like spring rates, wheelbase, camber link lengths, ride height, and making good progress.

Also made the move to a shorty lipo, which has given the car a bit more aggressive steering and much smoother jump landings. Also wheelies down the straight, getting me called a cheater each time

Kyle,


I dug out one of my old cars so I'll be working on a WOIN vintage car.


Next time I'm at the track, I want to drive it.





Momo

still looking good kyle! loving the clutch and rear hex adapters.

Anyone interested in me posting a how to on getting the B4 top shaft/slipper assembly to work perfectly on the B2/3?

MayorRC wrote:Anyone interested in me posting a how to on getting the B4 top shaft/slipper assembly to work perfectly on the B2/3?

That would be a good thing.

I would love to know how you fitted the B4 top shaft/slipper assembly on the B3!!!

Did you put some extra weight up front?

Cool car !

I'm not sure it's rocket science, even I was able to do it!

Remove stock B3 topshaft, insert B4 topshaft and use the B4 slipper pieces. No cutting, drilling, or customization necessary. It's like putting together Legos.

flipwils11 wrote:even I was able to do it!

but if you tighten the spring, the inner disk will bind against the trans case (because the cross pin isn't used anymore on the b4 top shaft).

I solved this by using a crush tube (the one you normally use inside the rear hubs to prevent binding when you tighten the wheelnut) I slightly drilled out the hole in the trans case so the crush tube would fit and rest against the bearing. That did the trick for me.

I was hoping to get a better alternative reading this post....

Hmmm not sure why but I never had this issue on mine. There was enough clearance between the inner disk, the motor plate, and trans case once it was mated to the B4 topshaft.

Maybe I'm missing something here, can take pics of how mine is setup.

if you would flipwils11 that would be great!

The thing I don't get: the b4 shaft has no flange/crosspin, so the b4 slipperplates will just slide all the way down the topshaft towards the gear itself. So somehow you'll have to fixate the inner disk at a certain distance from the gearcover, right ....???

I hope i'm making myself clear guys....