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The 3 pin battery and 2 pin motor "amps" connectors were common on associated stuff. Later they gave you a tamiya adapter with the kit to simplify. Depending on how the 3 pin was wired you could run a 6 or 7 cell with a BEC receiver. On the 1/12 it switched between 4 and 6 cell

Diggley wrote:So far it seems mostly complete; less a body/wing, battery straps, one counter sunk screw (for the antenna base) and a set of manuals.

I found a mint battery strap in my collection & I'm sure I have a matching screw around here somewhere. I may check the scan section and possibly print a copy of the assembly manual.

I have a manual. I don't have a way to scan it but I can take photos if you need specific info.

The manual is still available online as well, it's just hidden under a different link on the associated website.

This is the Cadillac manual but it is almost exactly the same! http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/RC10/Team/rc10_manual.pdf

You can find a link to all RC10 manuals in the 25 Year thread!

Thanks for the (links) help guys.

I'd like to try to find a an old period-correct copy to keep on hand.

I still need to set up the FT sway bar.

Did these things ever come with a rear sway bar?

Never came with a rear sway bar!

slotcarrod wrote:Never came with a rear sway bar!

I didn't think so.

I'd seen one equipped wih a rear set up on eBay that must have been a custom.

I remember what a big deal the F&R sway bars were on the Kyosho Turbo Ultima, but didn't recall a rear sway bar on the RC10 around that period.


I was suprised to find out I had to fab my own on the '10.

I figured a manual might have a template to help set up the correct bends.

Question:

What is the correct factory body for the late Edingers?

There are 2 styles still produced, but I'm not sure which matches the box.

Also, I see that the illustration shows 4 driving lights vs. the two I've seen on many parts trees..Am I missing something?

I'm debating if I want to leave it clear for display, or go for it and match the box illustration..

This will be the 1st RC car (of any make) I've ever owned that will be as close to factory stock as possible, I'd like to make sure it's accurate to the time period.

Don't do it up like the boxart. That's been done to death.

The correct body is the protech. You can grab a new one pretty much anywhere, but new ones differ from the original. The window nets are different. You need one with the wavy netting. Some of the early reissues had it but that didn't last long.

scr8p wrote:Don't do it up like the boxart. That's been done to death.

The correct body is the protech. You can grab a new one pretty much anywhere, but new ones differ from the original. The window nets are different. You need one with the wavy netting. Some of the early reissues had it but that didn't last long.

Thanks for the tip!

You're right.

I've seen a bunch done that way..kinda as common as blue & white paint jobs on Sand Scorchers...

I guess I'll figure something out, I just want this one to stay painfully stock as possible.

It's funny, I've been into this sort of thing since the mid-eighties, but this one makes me feel like a noob all over again..

thats a very nice find. looks special indeed! good price?

GJW wrote:thats a very nice find. looks special indeed! good price?

I tried to negotiate a better price, but considering how long I've been looking for one in this (new) condition, and how difficult it is to find an Edinger that doesn't cost a small fortune, I feel it was fair.

I paid a little over what retail would have been in the mid eighties.

Very nice buggy! I'm looking forward to watching this one progress.

Steve

Questions for the RC10 guru's:



I've got a white (covered) manual, it doesn't appear to be a copy. Is it correct for the mid-production Edingers?

I've only seen the yellow covers up to this point.


Also, When was the last year for the driver figure?

it's the correct manual.

pretty sure the driver came in every rc10 kit. not sure about the worlds car though.