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Just bought some mask and i am concerned about scoring the body. Is it difficult to cut?

Not to worry, use a new blade and cut the shapes/mask lines out. Any scoring of the body will not be seen between colors. Only time you'll see any scoring is if you make a mistake and cover it up with liquid mask and try again. So take your time cutting.

As highwayracer said make sure you put down a thick coat or you'll play hell peeling it up afterwards. Let it dry completely over night so the liquid mask is easy to pull up. For straight line use thin plastic straight edge that can flex to the body curves and draw the blade along the edge. Curves can be done free hand or cut the shapes out of card stock and trace with razor blade. Don't forget about cutting around the windows.

This was completely done with liquid mask, just take your time!


Good luck! post picture.
Qball

Showcase1186 wrote:Fantastic idea using an old spray bottle!!!!!! Thank you guys so much! I'll experiment on a test body this weekend!

The first time you use it can be frustrating. You might spray a body thats readily available the first time.

If I free hand a design, I draw my design on the outside with a sharpie. (On top of the protective film)... If you feel you need to see what you have done when painting (The sharpie marks are in the way) then you can remove the sharpie marks easily with Nitro fuel... Or if you have access to straight methane like I do, then that is even better! (It pays to hang around peeps that drag race)... There might be something else that works, but Methane just wipes it off.

Bolink body wash was the best for removing sharpie marks and overspray. The Tamiya stuff isn't too bad.

El-cheapo rubbing alcohol is all I use to remove Sharpie ink. Takes off fresh Sharpie with barely a swipe. Vintage Sharpie will come off too, but will need some rubbing. But it's rubbing alcohol after all.

I've sprayed it using a cheap automotive spray gun. 15 bucks when on sale... but now I just use a paint brush and brush in on. grain all going one direction. Let dry a bit(heat gun helps) then coat again going perpendicular to the stokes laid down the coat before. If its humid outside or raining/cold it will take forever to dry. I've used Bob's but now use this stuff that you can get at Coast Airbrush called "spray-lat sign strip" call them up and they can send you some. I don't see it on their website.

http://www.spraylat.com/products/signcoatings/signoverview/Plastic_Sign/Sig_Plastic_Sign_Strip.aspx

http://www.coastairbrush.com/index.html

Coelacanth wrote:

Showcase1186 wrote:Fantastic idea using an old spray bottle!!!!!! Thank you guys so much! I'll experiment on a test body this weekend!

Please update us with your experiences...I'll be doing some painting in the near future too and looking forward to seeing how the Windex spray-bottle works. FasMask is similarly water-based so I expect it to work the same.

I just wanted to update anyone interested in trying this out...this was a really bad suggestion. I tried thinning out some FasMask and put it in a Windex trigger bottle and it didn't "spray" out whatsoever. It spat out in droplets that stippled the Lexan surface instead of forming a thin coat, and when you kept "spraying" to get coverage, it was so inconsisent that it began running and pooling everywhere. An absolutely terrible idea. Don't try it. Now you know.

I used this sort of product for the first time two days a go. It was used on a canvas for a painting. I have to say I was not too impressed. I prefer vinyl and a scalpel. Or just masking tapes.

Oh, my problem wasn't with FasMask, it works great, either brushed or airbrushed on. I airbrushed it on wonderfully with a .5mm tip, cheap HVLP touch-up spray-gun, and I think thinned about 3 parts FasMask to 1 part warm water and sprayed it at about 50 psi. I think you could put down 4 or 5 fairly heavy coats and dry with a hair dryer between coats. Works fantastic. I keep hearing people say how Bob Dively's Mask is better, but it's impossible to find in Canada--I'd have to order it and pay shipping.

The only issue with FasMask is when you brush it on with a paintbrush, it can go on too thick in some spots and it takes a long time to dry out. I will spray it on with an HVLP gun from now on.

As far as vinyl goes, I'm not a fan of that method. I bought 3 widths of that expensive blue 3M Fine Line vinyl masking tape and that had just about as much paint bleed as cheaper tape. Doing anything involving curves just doesn't work well with any kind of tape. For the record, the best masking tape I've found is that yellow Tamiya tape. But now I only use that blue vinyl tape for helping me mark lines on top of the FasMask, and then scoring gently along the tape edge with an X-Acto knife.

kink wrote:I used this sort of product for the first time two days a go. It was used on a canvas for a painting. I have to say I was not too impressed. I prefer vinyl and a scalpel. Or just masking tapes.

ya Frisket would have worked better for you .. liquid mask works better on a smooth service with multiple curves

This video shows a guy using liquid mask and he has great skill with a scalpel too. Well worth a watch http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gnlAULx33fw

Fingers crossed for my attempt at liquid mask on my priceless vintage body!

I use Bob Dively's Liquid Mask. My workflow is like this:

1. Trim bodies with the X-acto method
2. Spray on Bob Dively's liquid mask (second half of above video) with $15 Harbor Freight Spray Gun
3. Use Sk3tch's workflow example to apply art, cut masks, and airbrush bodies