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4wd needs less kick-up than a 2wd but if it's just a car you're building/driving for fun you can skip altering it. You'd be looking to lower the kick-up by about half so I don't think it'd be enough to just add spacers to cover the extra distance. You also couldn't just leave off the nose tubes since you'd need the bracing....and speaking of bracing you might need to add some A&L style chassis braces to your car. The front wheels and chains are going to add new forces pulling at your chassis which could cause your cut-down chassis to tweak itself.


Do you know what the pitch is of your sprockets? If not you might as well pick up the matching sprockets from SDP/SI too.

Thanks phin, very useful input. Yeah this is for fun, no serious racing or anything! I may call and hope they can help me figure out what I need, maybe they are familiar with the Yokomo 834-b dimensions. The Yokomo 834-b is not 4WD, rather front assisted, right? I think I'm using the two sprockets from the standard 834-b but am not sure. The chain and sprockets are smaller than Kyosho/Marui. But you are right, just resting it on its wheels changes chain tension noticeably. I originally thought I would have enough excess gold tub to make A&L type stiffeners but not even close! I'm not sure where to but frp but I would need some on the cheap. I was and always think of a cage for these projects for bracing but have had no luck with soldering brass and do not own welder nor have access to one - not to mention materials. This one has a long way to go yet!

mcmaster carr for the G10 material. general purpose is what we use
http://www.mcmaster.com/#garolite-sheets/=m0wr86

Thank you gomachv!

No problem! When your ready to cut out pieces check out my thread on building a pin router. It will make building both pieces identical much easier especially if you already have a router and table

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=27742&hilit=Pin+router

Road Burner wrote:

Phin wrote:Sprocket should run you about $6-10USD (+shipping) so long as it's not a hard to find pitch.

If you want to take a random shot you could try this 11t Kyosho Mad Force sprocket up front:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_25_1460_1374/products_id/163323/n/Kyosho-11T-Sprocket

Might not be the same pitch though, and you'd have to use a thin sleeve/tube inside the bore since the sprocket is likely made for a metric shaft and the stealth idler shaft is 3/16". If it works you'd be at a 2.2 ratio up front which is pretty good.


Any plans to lower the kick-up angle?

Thank you phin I'll take a look at that but I found a link here for a company that makes these ladder chains and sprockets in many sizes. I have not thought about lowering kickup, do you think I should? If so it's possible by adding spacers to the front support tubes right? Thanks for your input phin!

Lovely lovey work! Was it TA01 front knuckles??

Nice work.. I'll be watching this build with great interest..

In regard to the problem you have with the imperial idler shaft, and metric sprockets..

How would you go enlarging the bearing holes in the tranny case to accept 5x10mm bearings, then using a 5mm shaft and a 5mm 48dp pinion gear the same size as the stock idler gear as your input/output shafts..

Tamiya Hornet axles should provide you with a suitable 5mm shaft..

Not a perfect solution, but could be done with basic hand tools and a Dremel..

Mark..

PS.. For those thinking of doing a shaft version, why not use TC3/4 gearboxes.. Shaft down the centre of the chassis, motor and electronics on one side of the pan, shorty LiPo on the other....

tiger1 wrote:

Road Burner wrote:

Phin wrote:Sprocket should run you about $6-10USD (+shipping) so long as it's not a hard to find pitch.

If you want to take a random shot you could try this 11t Kyosho Mad Force sprocket up front:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_25_1460_1374/products_id/163323/n/Kyosho-11T-Sprocket

Might not be the same pitch though, and you'd have to use a thin sleeve/tube inside the bore since the sprocket is likely made for a metric shaft and the stealth idler shaft is 3/16". If it works you'd be at a 2.2 ratio up front which is pretty good.


Any plans to lower the kick-up angle?

Thank you phin I'll take a look at that but I found a link here for a company that makes these ladder chains and sprockets in many sizes. I have not thought about lowering kickup, do you think I should? If so it's possible by adding spacers to the front support tubes right? Thanks for your input phin!

Lovely lovey work! Was it TA01 front knuckles??

Thank you tiger1! Yes they are TA-01 knuckles and carriers.

Stumpy wrote:Nice work.. I'll be watching this build with great interest..

In regard to the problem you have with the imperial idler shaft, and metric sprockets..

How would you go enlarging the bearing holes in the tranny case to accept 5x10mm bearings, then using a 5mm shaft and a 5mm 48dp pinion gear the same size as the stock idler gear as your input/output shafts..

Tamiya Hornet axles should provide you with a suitable 5mm shaft..

Not a perfect solution, but could be done with basic hand tools and a Dremel..

Mark..

PS.. For those thinking of doing a shaft version, why not use TC3/4 gearboxes.. Shaft down the centre of the chassis, motor and electronics on one side of the pan, shorty LiPo on the other....

Thank you Mark, you've got some good ideas there!