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i can relate to that

Have rubber and shocks.

My gamble that Yokomo Aluminum Shock Balls would fit Associated Shock Ends paid off. They're a hair smaller, but only enough to be free, not loose.

Chose the tires because I don't know of any tracks reasonably near me at the moment, so I want to be able to run around the driveway and yard for testing/tuning.



Now to think of electrics. What do you guys think: vintage brushed motor and esc, or get into this brushless thing?

I've made a couple of half attempts at Reedy Brushed Modified motors on eBay, but not ESC's. I'm sort of favoring this because it'd give me more of a feel for how the cars compared to my old Losi's, though I haven't looked into if I can still maintain these.

Can vintage brushed ESC's (like my Tekin 411P's) plug into a modern 2.4GHz receiver?

If I did brushless, I'd want to keep it similar to the Reedy Ultra 17T I have, to preserve the drive train. Any idea what that would equate to with the brushless motors?

Before I got the rubber I showed this to a friend who I found used to race Schumachers around 90, 91. He was a bit envious. Like me, he had wished to know what it was like to drive a 4WD RC cars, and also wanted a Yokomo. After looking mine over, he hopped on eBay and started looking up YZ10's.

I've considered buying a set of those tires as well. Let me know how they perform on pavement, when you get a chance.

Brushless/ lipo. 50-60min bashing runtimes- 10-12+min full race pace runtimes. Low maintenance, light and simple.

17.5-13.5 motors are roughly equivalent to 27t stock and 19t mod. Stock can be tough with 4wd as the can demand more than the motor can do sometimes

I'd say if you wanting to run brushless invest in the tcs slipper clutch. Rare but I think aip-2008 on this forum has one.

Coelacanth wrote:I've considered buying a set of those tires as well. Let me know how they perform on pavement, when you get a chance.

Right off, they're taller than I was expecting. Hoping they don't bog things down too much.

Charlie don't surf wrote:Brushless/ lipo. 50-60min bashing runtimes- 10-12+min full race pace runtimes. Low maintenance, light and simple.

17.5-13.5 motors are roughly equivalent to 27t stock and 19t mod. Stock can be tough with 4wd as the can demand more than the motor can do sometimes

Will probably stick with NiMH cells so I can use my current charger. Don't have plans for racing; not even sure of a track a reasonable distance from me to race on, anyway. How are the Reedy brushless, besides expensive?

naushad wrote:I'd say if you wanting to run brushless invest in the tcs slipper clutch. Rare but I think aip-2008 on this forum has one.

I was wondering about adding a slipper. I think one of the four threaded holes in the spur adapter (?) is stripped and the aluminum pulley is pretty worn, anyway. Has anyone tried to adapt a modern clutch with a custom main shaft?

Also was wondering about a one-way front drive clutch. I saw two pulleys on eBay, but people want something like $45 for them? One is for an MX4. Would that work on a YZ10?



How are people mounting servos? Servo tape, or drilling holes in the chassis?

HS-YZ250 wrote:

Coelacanth wrote:I've considered buying a set of those tires as well. Let me know how they perform on pavement, when you get a chance.

Right off, they're taller than I was expecting. Hoping they don't bog things down too much.

For a ballpark estimate, figure out what percentage your new wheels & tires are taller than your old wheels & tires. Reduce your pinion gear size by that same difference. It'll be within a tooth or two of the same rollout ratio. For example, if your tires are 20% larger diameter than before, reduce your pinion gear by 20% and the rollout will be more or less equivalent. It's not exact but it's pretty suitable for an estimation.

Will this one-way work for the front on mine?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/YOKOMO-ZR-674H-YR4M2-YR4MII-15T-ROUE-LIBRE-ONE-WAY-/221250351007?pt=FR_YO_Jeux_RadioComRobots_VehiculesRadiocommandes&hash=item33838c6f9f

Depends on the layshaft you have.

On the servo front, tape, i had mine taped on my original 94 forever, it never came loose, just use a good quality double sided, clean the surfaces well and bam, stick it like you stole it!

lee

To add, love what you have done to this old dog, looks lovely, id go old schoolish with the electrics, but thats me, i like period, or as near as in these cars, grab yourself a nice Novak Cyclone of LRPV6 maybe and a brushed 540.

lee

It's all on me, now! Need to read up on the needs of the speed controller (resistors and such), but here is what I have for electrics:

Spektrum SR301 24GHz Receiver (converted my old racers to this as well, so I have a single transmitter for them all)
Hi-Tec HS-625MG Servo
Reedy Spec 19 Quad Mag motor (was interested in the Quad magnet setup. It came after my racing days)
Novak GT7
3300 mAh NiMH Saddle Packs.





Having a little issue figuring out how to put in the servo. I want to use an off-road servo saver, but that requires me to raise the servo. Also mount the steering linkage on the backside of the servo saver. Seems like it has enough range of motion; the YZ-10 steering seems to be a very high rate compared to my Losi's

This is why you don't use the aluminum steering rack

You might consider getting a decent metal gear servo, so that you don't need a servo saver. Then you can drop the servo down to where it is supposed to be. Or revert to the stock steering rack with the integrated servo saver...

The servo I have is a metal gear, don't know how good it is, though.

But I was immediately envious of the OEM steering with the built in servo saver when I first mocked this all up.

What model servo is it? I would imagine any decent mid-range metal gear servo, like a Hitec 5625MG, should be just fine for something like this.

Bear in mind that locked steering racks are popular now in modern buggies, since it eliminates lag between servo movement and wheel movement. The B4.2 comes with a solid bellcrank, and so you're basically forced to run a MG servo with it.