RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Whadda ya know- its an Ultima...with a transverse battery, red shocks and funny steering

Funny steering alright. The wheels would turn but the car wouldn't...

Guess Joel won the quater mile race with it

Go easy on me here guys, I am extreme novice. But I do love the classics. I spend most of my days restoring vintage Japanese motorcycles. I can definetly see the beauty here. I didn't realise my RC10 had similar steering, what I was reffering to was the dual posts and servo saver, but I understand it all now that I have disassembled it.

surveywaters wrote:Go easy on me here guys, I am extreme novice. But I do love the classics. I spend most of my days restoring vintage Japanese motorcycles. I can definetly see the beauty here. I didn't realise my RC10 had similar steering, what I was reffering to was the dual posts and servo saver, but I understand it all now that I have disassembled it.

Doesn't look bad-

We weren't picking on you, we were picking on each other

surveywaters -
I would never pick on a guy with an Ultima
What are You going to do about the topdeck?

I don't know, I have two. One is missing a tabe for the battery pack, another has about an inch missing toward the front which doesn't look critical. I was considering cutting a new one from aluminum. Any thoughts? I am currently more concerned about the roll cage and body. The body is really expensive on ebay and the rollcage is real pricey for a questionable used one.

Will any roll bar setups fit the Gen 1 Ultima other than gen 1 ultima roll bars? Like the Ultima DB?

The DB is allmost twice the size as the 1. gen. Ultima.
Perhaps is possible to make something out of a Tamiya FAV cage.

I would use either fibre glass or kydex for topdeck. It absorbs a collision better than aluminum.

Whenever I see "DB", I think "douchebag".

Back to your regularly-scheduled program...

I didn't realise it served a purpase other than the obvious. Impact absorption makes since. I looked at carbon fiber, fiberglass, and kydex. The kydex looks best by far. I am seeing 0.060" and 0.080" thickness, I've never used this material and don't know how rigid it is. Obviosly I would prefer thethinner for weight but is it stiff enough?

surveywaters wrote:I didn't realise it served a purpase other than the obvious. Impact absorption makes since. I looked at carbon fiber, fiberglass, and kydex. The kydex looks best by far. I am seeing 0.060" and 0.080" thickness, I've never used this material and don't know how rigid it is. Obviosly I would prefer thethinner for weight but is it stiff enough?

Kydex is great for making bumpers. I made my own bumper for my CYANide on-road car from 5mm Kydex. Once you've cut it and drilled it, you can use a heat gun on it to warm it up, then make some simple bends.

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=17726&start=58

Cool, I got some Kydex sheet as well as some carbon fiber phenolic from my sister in law who works here in town for a very large commercial plastics distributor; handy hook up
Now I still need to figure out this roll bar and body situation. I am sure I could fit a standard buggy body on it but that wouldn't be right at all.

I've toyed around with the idea of using 1/4" or 3/8" stainless steel brake or fuel line and a pipe bender to fabricate a partial roll-cage, but the part I can't do is the brazing or welding the parts together.

That's a great idea, but I don't have one to model it after, closest I have is the manual's picture. I can do a little brazing with aluminum. Harbor Freight sales low temp brazing rods that work with MAP gas and a propane torch. They're really easy to use.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-K-S-Round-Aluminum-Tube-1-8x36-5-1109-NIB-/390562879812?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item5aef5c9944