RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

If you're looking for a cheap runner set of shocks to substitute for Kyosho Golds, 3Racing makes a damper set for the Lazer ZX-5 that works great with minor modifications, and at $23 or so for a set of four, you can't go wrong. I have a set on one of my cars and if I was out of Golds, I wouldn't hesitate to buy another set.

http://www.3racing-parts.com/shop/kyosho-lazer-zx5-chassis-aluminium-front-and-rear-damper-blue-color-for-3racing-zx501bu-p-10001396.html

They need to be shortened a little bit, which I did by using short 4.5mm ball-cups and putting 3 to 5mm plastic spacers under the shock pistons which reduces the uncompressed length by that much. I also found the shock oil they're built with is a bit too thick; the shocks worked perfectly with 30-weight (if I remember correctly) and opening up the piston ring holes a little bit. But by all means, if you have Golds, use 'em...you won't find many shocks that perform better.

Coelacanth wrote:But by all means, if you have Golds, use 'em...you won't find many shocks that perform better.

Equalizers. Teflon-coated shocks. Velvets. Big-bore velvets. Kyosho shocks are just shockingly good.

I have purchased the new scorpion shocks in ebay, and fits perfectly.

ipenalosa wrote:I have purchased the new scorpion shocks in ebay, and fits perfectly.

Yep, they are a perfect fit, put them on mine a while back. They're fun to bleed, though.

Hello all,

i will try to replace the triangle above the battery, (where is located the original speed controller), by two bars like in the picture of Ron. but i don't find anything.
Could you tell me some ideas? or tell me where do you buy? or is it hand made?
I think yes, i have some carbon fiber rods with 4-6mm of diameter, (of some kites) and also have the ball ends, but what about the junction? what is the metal zone in the picture??

Thanks!

ron wrote:Yeah thats the way to pop them out. I usually hit it with the side of a pliers. If you liver in between the the aluminum hex and wheel shaft mounting, you will be scratching and damaging the hex.

I have a turbo raider myself, not driven it though, have customized it with metal linkages, carbon fiber shock towers etc, got a brand new gold w-5061 drive shafts for $33 new off ebay too. Hey one question to all you guys there, are those gold shocks the turbo raider comes with, kyosho's or are they duratrax???? I have opened mine up and it has does not have 2 O-rings like the kyosho pressure gold shocks. mine had leaked, but I packed in a thin washer (0.4mm thickness) before the retainer clip to squeeze in the O-ring to better provide sealing.

those are custom. link ends and rod.
cut rod to length.

i like that setup, and now that i'm the happy owner of an almost new raider pro, i may do this mod too.

check out a few more pics of the raider here, Yes its custom made, those are fiberglass rods or tubes, crack easily, took a 3mm 12-15mm long machine screw, cut out the head and slot it in the tube with steel epoxy. The metal bits are metal sleeve that I have to use in order for the fiber glass to not crack under impact. Since I do not like the body it had (sold it) I was doing a lot around the chassis so it looks cool, the 2 rods add a nice rool cage like appearance to it. Now you can get carbon fiber tubes, they are cheap and really strong.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/ronit_ks/sets/72157632137252748/

This account is mine but I have forgotten the password

i bet we can use the rod's that they use in 4 link monster trucks, like the stuff fromrc4wd, crawfordperformance, etc...

http://crawfordperformanceengineering.com/index.php?cPath=16_49

Hi all, thnks to answer me.

Nice gallery Ron! I take a look, and i have taken some ideas

Thanks for the explanation, this weekend i will do it! I need to buy the sleeves, because i dont have it!

YOU COULD USE ALUMINUM TUEBS WITH 3MM INTERNAL THREADS on both ends or do it yourself, the diameter would be 4-4.5mm. I would rather go with the carbon fiber tubes, stronger and way lighter. The sleeve I got was from old VHS video tapes, if you have some, open them up, the thin long screws that hold it together can ve very handy, you will find 2 sleeves per tape I think, different brands will have differnet thicknesses, the latter VHS tapes had plastic sleeves, now these are handy if you want to use them as bushings!

thanks again!!

Carbon fiber rods, are not so expensive, and if you buy one rod, yo have rod for many mods!!

Here in Madrid (Spain) i ususally buy these rods in kite shops, for example http://www.alamair.com/pages_es/producto.php?tipo=1&idp=448&ids=174&idd=134

or in decathlon http://www.decathlon.es/tubo-carbono-cometa-6-mm-id_1103582.html

Search one kite shop in your city, or may be in some Chinnese shops like aliexpress or something like this, it could be more cheaper i dont know.

Hey ron, how are those chassis braces working out for you? I'm thinking about doing the same for a Kyosho Outrage. It has tons of chassis flex between the top deck, which doesn't go the length of the chassis, and the front brace.

Hey, Richie, they work great, it all depends on what angle they are set at. It will not break unless you hit a wall at 40-50mph! I put those struts there more for appearance than structural integrity but it serves both purpose very well! I never stay stock, I always modify my RC stuff cause it makes it more scale like, there is always something you can improve on existing buggies. Cool Bridgestone tires and rims on the raider, its a cheap but very well constructed buggy. Tires not that soft though.

if you have a threaded ends than you can adjust your rod ends to achieve that perfect stiffness on the chassis. Gives that lightweight and compact appearance.

Post some pics of what you guys will be doing!

I also restored and repaired a Kyosho Raider.

I translated from my blog: http://reparar-cochesrc.blogspot.com/2018/02/restauracion-reparacion-de-kyosho-raider.html.
Sorry for my bad translation.

The car was like the picture: dirty, without motor, the speed controller did not work, tires that are loose from the tires, ..



I should clean and change the shock absorbers:


The car needs a motor. Before I must clean and grease:


Cleaning and whitening the wheels with hydrogen peroxide:




In the end, I paint the wheels with the white paint. I also placed a sponge inside the tires:



I paint the letters of the tire with the white paint:


I lubricate the transmission and the gears:


I place ball bearings instead of plastic bushes:



The motor is type 555 rewound by me so that it is faster:








I adjust the 15 teeth pinion:



Replacing front shock absorbers with other oil shock absorbers:


The rear shocks work well (they were previously replaced by the previous owner):


The receiver is Sanwa brand with the old standard; it is valid for an old Sanwa servo but is not compatible for a modern ESC:


I made an adapter for ESC (reversing + and - wires):


The car is already working well:


I will paint the body another day:

nice to see so many people so interested in the raider!
i will follow this thread, because i have also 2 raiders that im working on.

these low budget cars are fantastic, bulletproof (for the most part) plenty of parts
and tons of fun and customisation.

i will try to find some pics of my own build and upload it in a thread or showroom.