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Yes, I am also Justin.

By "end" I mean the part that attaches to the pipe, not the pat that attaches to the engine.

The stock pipe is very good. Actually very very good. I have tried many different pipes and have not found anything "better". Some pipes make more low end, some make more top end, some are better in the middle, but the stock pipe is the best of both worlds. It comes on strong very low and has a very smooth power band all the way to a screaming top end. IMO putting a different pipe on would be a waste of money. Besides, you will have MORE than enough power with that .18. If anything it will be too much already. once you get that .18 running right your biggest problem is going to be keeping it from flipping over backwards. And melted diff gears. You might want to go ahead and order a couple.

Man, you could write a 10+ page letter on the GT and only scratch the surface. In my opinion it was one of the greatest trucks to be conceived however.

As far as the clutch in concerned a properly tuned engine wouldn't move the truck with Associateds springless clutch. Associated even offered a 4 shoe clutch of the same design as an option. You could tune these clutches by trimming the shoes to make them lighter, the idea for this is to make them engage at higher RPM when the engine is in its power band.

Not sure if they are still available but MIPs 4-n-1 clutch was great. It had a spring and was very tunable.

As for the exhaust anything that gets added onto the pipe is going to hurt performance. If you must divert the exhaust out the back look for the MIP 360 Stinger, it's a propery designed and tuned pipe/muffler set up that exits the exhaust out the back. You could also slide the pipe forwards or backwards slightly to tune it a bit more.

As Justin says, the stock pipe was very good.

RC10th wrote:Man, you could write a 10+ page letter on the GT and only scratch the surface. In my opinion it was one of the greatest trucks to be conceived however.

As far as the clutch in concerned a properly tuned engine wouldn't move the truck with Associateds springless clutch. Associated even offered a 4 shoe clutch of the same design as an option. You could tune these clutches by trimming the shoes to make them lighter, the idea for this is to make them engage at higher RPM when the engine is in its power band.

Not sure if they are still available but MIPs 4-n-1 clutch was great. It had a spring and was very tunable.

As for the exhaust anything that gets added onto the pipe is going to hurt performance. If you must divert the exhaust out the back look for the MIP 360 Stinger, it's a propery designed and tuned pipe/muffler set up that exits the exhaust out the back. You could also slide the pipe forwards or backwards slightly to tune it a bit more.

As Justin says, the stock pipe was very good.

The chassis I recently bought from Craigslist and the muffler came with it. I don't think it's stock. It seems to be kinda long... You guys will have to tell me which I have.

If its not the stock one, anybody got one to sell? And I'm buying a dremel tonight for the manifold port job.

There are several different versions of the associated pipe, yours is the rtr/rpm version. It its tuned more towards rpm than torque, but to be honest there is hardly any difference between that and the torque tuned pipe performance wise.

justinspeed79 wrote:There are several different versions of the associated pipe, yours is the rtr/rpm version. It its tuned more towards rpm than torque, but to be honest there is hardly any difference between that and the torque tuned pipe performance wise.

Ok I'll just keep that one. I'm port matching the manifold today.

That was a popular modification back in the day.

RC10th wrote:That was a popular modification back in the day.

I hope it makes some difference. I want max power!

Well, good news and bad news.

I got it nice and ported. Looks ugly in the pic but all the aluminum inside is nice and shiny.


Bad news, I made a tiny pinhole when I took off slightly too much material. Will this effect anything? Should I maybe JB Weld over it?

JB weld should seal it. Make sure it is free of all oil residue first though. You should be fine though...

SFC K wrote:JB weld should seal it. Make sure it is free of all oil residue first though. You should be fine though...

Cool. I was really happy with my port job until I did that. So, dont watch tv and dremel at the same time kids! Bad combo

I found another manifold today and decided to give the porting another try. I did much better and I have to say I like my Black and Decker RTX more than my old dremel.

Anyway, see for yourself. Before and after and bits used.

Has anyone tried to convert to electric? I found the following bracket on eBay. I imagine with the right brushless setup it would fly.

- Limestang