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Here were my experiences...

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=62&t=23169&start=3

LTO_Dave wrote:Could the hazing some of you guys are seeing be a result of the previous painter scuffing the inside of the lexan like your supposed to do before painting? I scuffed my Pro-Line Wrangler, B44 and Viper bodies with some 1500 or 2000 grit paper on the inside before painting and it looked hazy like people are describing.

Nope, that would give you scratches or an etched surface. The hazing is inside the lexan, no amount of sanding will remove it as it is embedded inside the plastic. look at Coelacanths Optima body in the link above, if it was due to the paint etching into the shell or scuffing the body before painting it wouldn't just be in the cockpit area of the body.

The problem is that bodies are not made from just one make of polycarbonate.What works fine on one body will damage another. I used an old LXT body for some experimentation and found even polycarbonate safe graffiti removers would cloud the body, yet the same stuff did no damage to a modern body.

im striping the Truggy body that was painted on the outside with flat black and inside with unknown paint ... did the dot 3 trick and its removing the paint from the outside but the paint inside hasnt budged .. any ideas ?

i'd say give it some time, maybe rub the paint down with dot3 on a paper towel to kind of break the skin on the paint. it could be a paint that isn't affected by dot3 too. from what I've seen on this thread, it's a slow process.

so i got the black striped by the end of day and letting the white sit over night







the inside still did want to strip but i got a little of with a red scotchbrite pad

I think I would rather pay for a new body than go through the paint removal process. Just my opinion though

RCMA wrote:I think I would rather pay for a new body than go through the paint removal process. Just my opinion though

i agre 100% i just want to see what its going to take incase i ever have too .. this will probly be my first and last

I just stripped a sct body witg dot 3. I had to let it soak like a week then scrub the paint off. A little elbow grease never hurts

well i finaly got the paint off .. i started with dot3 for 2 days and got the out side off .. tryed dot3, nitro, and dot4 on the inside and couldnt get it to budge even with a red sctoch brite pad .. ended up mixing 60% nitro to 40% laquer thiner .. you just want enough to remove it and not too much it will cloud the plastic

still had to use the scotch brite to get it off but it finaly came after about 3-4hr

I have had some success stripping smaller parts with a UK product called Dettol Liquid (antiseptic) which contains Chloroxylenol. I think it works best on acrylic paints. Stuff stinks like a hospital after a viral outbreak though.
Going to try this on a Kyosho Scorpion body soon so which let RC10talk see the results.

I tried once.... That was that!

Fyi, i discovered, completely by accident a way to get old paint of lexan. Not exactly sure what paint it effects as it was a prepainted body. Use the citris base cleaners u would use to get old stickers off things. I was cleaning some very old velcro residue of a shell and some of the cleaner was left on over night, as i went to rub the glue residue off my finger nail scratched the paint and it came of pretty easily. You have to make sure u coat it heavily and soak it over night so the paint looks sticky in the morning and it comes straight off...just thought i would mention this as its a safer and non chemical option then brake fluid...