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how far away do you REALLY need to mount that receiver? I am pretty sure you could leave it on the bench with this steering servo... two sets of splices
Chris

I have several novak escs that way and a ton zip ties on it for the extra wire! don

Do you remember the toy cars with the wire that attached the car to the controller ???? You could build it like that

Still waiting on a ton of parts, but I was able to assemble what I had for now. No chassis currently but I do have a brand new noseplate

I guess I could install it all on the Edinger pan and go 6 gear 10t
Chris

Woohoo scored another t2 so I have a chassis to build the buggy from and build the truck



Re-re? What's that?

Oh I know.... A source of parts!

It appears to have a full set of titanium turnbuckles too... Interesting. And someone polished the edge of the chassis.. And a B+R motor. And it seems to be missing a gear cover and a battery strap

No pics of the bottom though.. -worried-

Chris

Got my anno'd parts back from Go today, things are looking AWESOME
Chris

Things are looking Awesome

Looking good!

One question: do you still see scratches on the chassis after anodizing?

I used sandpaper to knock down more of the nasty bits but yes there still is some scratching. The worst area is the rear motor guard, along with scratching it is very pitted. however if you don't look too close it looks wonderful.

Chris

Okay thank you for the details

My T2 chassis is powder coated. It's looking good but there also still some scratching. The big problem by powder coating is that the screws won't flush with the chassis, they will hanging out.

Only way to really remove scratches would be to fill them in and sand the tub smooth which if you fill with weld so it will anno correctly it may lose the heat treated properties of the tub. I am fine with the glaring silver scratches being gone myself having them the same color as the rest of the tub hides them nicely.

Chris

Filling the scratches will create other issues, unless the exact same alloy of aluminum is used (impossible) the anno will tint differently and thus the dye will show the lines.

You can keep sanding....but man that's a lot of work

clm wrote:Only way to really remove scratches would be to fill them in and sand the tub smooth which if you fill with weld so it will anno correctly it may lose the heat treated properties of the tub. I am fine with the glaring silver scratches being gone myself having them the same color as the rest of the tub hides them nicely.

Chris

Here you can see my T2 chassis: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=27841

I'm very happy with the result

The old rc10 tubs are cool, looking awesome...as long as these are not fully bent and scratched This cars are actually legends but I wonder how long did such a chassis hold on, racing it regularly? How many were completely bent and destroyed? And how did they look after racing a complete season ??

Looks great! I am also happy with my results aside from a couple areas that aren't fully anodized, although I will just ignore those

Better pics, it and my cleaned up Team Car next to it. Both need battery cups, the 10t also needs full hex rod ends and lower rear shock parts while the Team Car needs body mounts.

Chris

I just got another 10t in the mail from the BST forum, I plan to split it up making a rough t2 trans equipped runner and the transmission into the b1.5 project.
I find the fact they used a titanium Technicraft turnbuckle as a splint for the front a arm excessive and hilarious. We have money for titanium... but not a arms
Chris