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Well, I got 3 good ball diffs out of 4 dis assembled. Should have just left them alone. The 3 finished are only a little better than before,, and 8 of the little balls went by by so 4th dif is in complete. That diagram helped heaps!

Heres whats done so far. From here on it should be fast to completion.

The 2 best ball diffs in this one, and all cars get thorp gears.

Its never as easy as it seems. Slight change of plans. The A&L chassis instructions want the builder to dremmel the diff out drive cups for clearance. I didnt want to do that to the ball diffs, so the A&L now gets some gear diffs. The SWB car pictured is the best of the lot, and will be re created as close to Turbo Mid SE as possible.

3rd car is not started due to waiting for diff parts. Parts are in! 3rd car will be as solid and nice as first 2. I may have to make concessions with suspension though. Going to try using triumph arms as I have a pile of them, and not enough mid arms.

There could be a 4th with minimal effort and $$ expenditure. Not sure if the 3rd or 4th will get the different arms. 4th car will be more basic and have the stock gears.

That trailing arm chassis looks sweet.
Is that a recent purchase?

I bought that A&L chassis set years ago when Alec or Lane,,, was clearing out old stock. He had chassis for a couple different cars at the time,, complete sets. Had spare parts too. Just got through attaching rear arms,, a bit of a pain. Looks like triumph arms are a no go. 1 car gonna get zx front end then, and other car will get slightly rough mid front arms. Will Post more pics tomorrow.

Looking good
I think the servo saver/bellcrank setup on the A&L car is what should be on the SE

Seeing that SE being built up brings back memories of mine that I bough brand new

Back when mids were still being sold at tower hobbies,, I had just shelved rc cars in favor of rc airplanes. Totally missed out on the best Kyosho cars.

Both cars have exact same bell crank set up. The swb car just has a spring on it. Not sure if turbo se had a servo saver in the crank, or if it used a servo mounted saver. I guess theres always the instruction book!

ZX front end on the A&L car.

Whats the best way to attach the belt covers? I dont have the correct foam tape. Silicone? Latex caulk? servo tape? CA?







Last picture. There are some plastic spacers added to the trailing arms. Should relieve some side to side stress that would otherwise be transferred to a lonely little E clip.

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Hoping to get 3rd car started today. Will be starting that one from the ground up as well. It gets all new diffs! Gear diffs,, but all new anyway. Contemplating going a diff erent direction with this. It has a set of scratched up mid arms waiting, but also possibly kx one arms, or triumph arms, which are slightly longer than mids, and slightly shorter than zx arms,,, or lazer alpha plastic arms,,, or cool looking stock arms from a beagle,,, So, the mid collection is as this: 1 x lwb car, with bling, 1 x lwb A&L car, 1 x swb rally car, and 1x swb buggy turbo se. I figure the next build should be different. It has no choice but SWB though.

rccars4sal wrote:
Whats the best way to attach the belt covers? I dont have the correct foam tape. Silicone? Latex caulk? servo tape? CA?

Team Associated 6727 is a good alternative. I've tried it on a Mid my self
http://www.ebay.com/sch/Radio-Control-Control-Line-/2562/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=Team+Associated+6727&LH_PrefLoc=2&_sop=15

I found some kit supplied servo tape, the black foam kind. Cut into strips that seems to be working well.

I tend to buy rolls of 3M heavy duty outdoor double sided tape for less then 10 bucks at the local hardware store. It seems identical to the good stuff you get from Associated, but it's much longer then the couple inch strips you get from a hobby supplier.

Chris

Just a small update here. Got shocks and tires on the A&L car. Starting at the diff outpuits shafts, everything is custom fitted, shimmed, bushed... Some kind of freakish long kyosho type front wheel axle with pin drive on rear arms, using extra long tamiya hex hub to make clearance so the tires dont rub. It works. Dogbones and drive cups are "fitted" so hopefully nothing will fling out when run hard. Long shock ends on all shocks.

3rd car is started! Had trouble figuring out what to use for matching front arms. Ended up using KX1{tf4} rear arms, and then standard mid type hubs and knuckles. Works perfectly! Now the right and left are matching, and standard buggy length.

Waiting for belt covers, and tires,, then these 3 will get more work done to them!

That trailing-arm car will look cool! So the front arms are for the Kyosho TF4 and fit in place of Mid arms, with the same length for the dogbones, same fit for the C-carriers & knuckles?

No mods needed to fit tf4 / kx1 arms. They are rears,, and have a slight amount of toe in built in. No shims or grinding needed to fit standard mid c hubs. Using stock mid front universals with no spacers or anything. So, the c hubs themselves will have slight toe in, but I dont think that will affect how the front end works. Its slight, and the steering rods will compensate for tuning. Its just that the outer hinge pin is not on the same plane as the inner. Probably only about 2 degrees.

Solid mechanicals, and rolling stock is figured for 2 of the 3 anyway. Trailing arm car still isnt finalized for wheels and tires. Cars are sealed up and ready for install of electronics, and fitting of bodies! Sneak peak of my whole mid collection. Blue bling car is currently getting fitted with brushless, and it has a marwan body set. 2 spd celica has an HPI rally interior with a bad shade of yellow. Dont fret, it will get re sprayed. Im not into the yellow either. What was I thinking?!
Take a wild guess who grows up to be a Porsche!