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With the shocks done per the current manual or even using 3 spacers vs. 2, the rear arms are being stopped by the dogbone hitting the arms.

Switching to the fuel tubing to get full droop to be about 2 mm between the dogbone and arm.

i opened up my shocks and put 5/8" of fuel tubing on the shafts. its no good to build them per the manual.

also drilled the new front tower holes, so much better. i just used an old tower as a template, but i think i coulda dropped the hole a 1/16" or even 1/8" lower and it would have been just right. i still have a little bit of room left in the shock before the arm contacts the tower.

SnoopMaxx wrote:

RichieRich wrote:Heim joint? I just learned something new today. I just realized my front shocks were binding too and spinning the joint 180 degrees fixed it. Also, I built the rear shocks with the 3 spacers. It appears that if you don't use the limiters, the travel is stopped by the dogbone?

Yeah that's how I bent a cvd axle on my CE, cos I lost a spacer while rushing a shock rebuild between heats

I bought a CE off eBay about a month ago and it had one badly bent dogbone, and the other is probably tweaked too but I didn't look too closely. The stock shocks were built correctly, but he had installed shocks from a B4, which were presumably built without limiters (I haven't opened them up yet).

badhoopty wrote: also drilled the new front tower holes, so much better. i just used an old tower as a template, but i think i coulda dropped the hole a 1/16" or even 1/8" lower and it would have been just right. i still have a little bit of room left in the shock before the arm contacts the tower.

What is a good distance? I took my shock tower off this weekend and will try and drill the new holes tonight.

SteveK wrote:

SnoopMaxx wrote:

RichieRich wrote:Heim joint? I just learned something new today. I just realized my front shocks were binding too and spinning the joint 180 degrees fixed it. Also, I built the rear shocks with the 3 spacers. It appears that if you don't use the limiters, the travel is stopped by the dogbone?

Yeah that's how I bent a cvd axle on my CE, cos I lost a spacer while rushing a shock rebuild between heats

I bought a CE off eBay about a month ago and it had one badly bent dogbone, and the other is probably tweaked too but I didn't look too closely. The stock shocks were built correctly, but he had installed shocks from a B4, which were presumably built without limiters (I haven't opened them up yet).

badhoopty wrote: also drilled the new front tower holes, so much better. i just used an old tower as a template, but i think i coulda dropped the hole a 1/16" or even 1/8" lower and it would have been just right. i still have a little bit of room left in the shock before the arm contacts the tower.

What is a good distance? I took my shock tower off this weekend and will try and drill the new holes tonight.

i cant remember things very well... i'll try to measure the o.g. tower lower hole.

iirc it was a tick over 1/8". just enough to be able to drill the new hole without drilling into the existing hole.

Its at or just over 1/8" as you said. I measured my original RC10 I bought new and a used A stamp chassis, both read just about 1/8". Depending on which hole was used, its slighlty larger than the un-used one. The gap between the holes is measuring in at a measly .028" or so. Not much material between the holes.

drewbush wrote:Its at or just over 1/8" as you said. I measured my original RC10 I bought new and a used A stamp chassis, both read just about 1/8". Depending on which hole was used, its slighlty larger than the un-used one. The gap between the holes is measuring in at a measly .028" or so. Not much material between the holes.

i drilled my new one exactly to the old one, and at full compression i still have a tick of shock travel. if i was to do it again, id go like 3/16" below the original hole instead of mirroring the original tower.

I checked the shock by hand before I took it off, the Sharpie mark is right about 1/8" below the stock hole.