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It's so nice to see this build! Wanted to do something along the same lines with my own Meteor, but as for 95% of my rc car plans it just won't happen... I never had one in the old days but I've always liked the simplicity of Mardave. After all it made it possible for more people to get into racing. One day I simply have to make mine a recuperational runner. I will never be able to make it as ace as yours - just making it a car to bring the mind to rest. Thanks for sharing this top notch build!

LurkingCAT wrote:It's so nice to see this build! Wanted to do something along the same lines with my own Meteor, but as for 95% of my rc car plans it just won't happen... I never had one in the old days but I've always liked the simplicity of Mardave. After all it made it possible for more people to get into racing. One day I simply have to make mine a recuperational runner. I will never be able to make it as ace as yours - just making it a car to bring the mind to rest. Thanks for sharing this top notch build!

Thank you for your kind comments... I must admit i'm surprised that the Meteor reached overseas even within Europe! They were a company that I think appeared amateurish in many ways compared with the slicker looking corperate image portrayed the other manufacturers... but I think this more basic/honest no-frills image really appealled to the true modeller.... the type that liked to tinker with mechnical stuff in general or build a model plane or boat from plans - as the basic design of the car lent itself to a certain amount of self interpretation & modification!

One of the items of paperwork that came with the light blue Ebay car was this parts/pricelist from Jan 1988 - not only does every single part to build the car (down to a single diff screw or peice of double sided tape) fit onto one side of A4 paper - but the prices were also just so cheap! The hand typed sheet brings back memories of being a spotty 13/14 year old sitting down & writing out a letter to Mardave direct, listing out all the spares that I needed along with the reference number, the letter would then be posted off with a cheque written out by my Dad for the total cost.... a week or so later my spares would arrive through the door in a little jiffy bag..... just £10 worth of spares would seem like enough parts to build a new car! Come to think of it that must be the start of the addiction..... constantly needing to be waiting for some random R/C car parts to arrive in the post

Looking good Dan I always wondered if Chris (Wilkinson) still had the mould for the LWB Meteor. I know he bought Mardave, but you'd think he would have got all the tooling even if it was obsolete.

I raced V12's for years, and before I bought my own first buggy, I was lent a SWB Meteor. It really did have comedy handling, but most soon tinkered with them as the magazine article shows, to get them to perform.

Paul.

CAT3K wrote:Looking good Dan I always wondered if Chris (Wilkinson) still had the mould for the LWB Meteor. I know he bought Mardave, but you'd think he would have got all the tooling even if it was obsolete.

I raced V12's for years, and before I bought my own first buggy, I was lent a SWB Meteor. It really did have comedy handling, but most soon tinkered with them as the magazine article shows, to get them to perform.

Paul.

Thanks Paul,

I did e'mail Chris somewhile ago (at least 2 years ago now!) About the LWB Lexan shell - I can't remember what the response was exactly, but I got the impression that he wasn't interested or no-longer had the tooling, hence my persistance in finding a used original for Penguin shells to reproduce.

From what I remember my Meteor handled really well once i'd sussed the shocks out - I used to run it low & soft for racing at my indoor track - comparing it to the Hornet I had been racing - it was like the difference between a modern car & a ModelT!

The simple nature of these cars is great. Such a world away from overly complex modern machines.

Thank you Dan and all for posting info. The absence of bling factor of Mardave I find really appealing, and I very much agree with you about the simplicity and honesty of these cars attracted the true modeller. As I remember the eighties the "schools" were very different. With the Tamiyas you bought an iconic consept with their cars - for Mardave you simply got a rc car to WORK on. Actually the Mardave philosophy was a bit similar to most of the 1/12 track cars popular in the days. In Norway a couple of shops had the Meteor but it never sold in any big numbers.

Some of you would know, but just want to mention the book of Deryck and Chris Green (father and son), published by Hanyes 1990; Radio controlled off-road cars. The father (Deryck) was racing the Meteor and Chris an Optima Mid, and they use their own cars to illustrate this very basic book. What is interesting is the attitude to the Meteor as a "competition buggy" - as stated the book is simple but a good read.

As a Schumacher enthusiast I also have to mention that Cecils first attempt in making the first ever ball diff for rc cars was on Robins 1/12 Mardave - a ground breaking success! This was the start of some Schumacher/Mardave collaboration, but that is Schumacher history not relevant for this thread.

Threw some paint on the repro shell & got it mounted









@ Lurking Cat - I'd love to know more about the relationship/working partnership between Schumacher & Mardave in the early years - I knew that Cecil's diff was used on a mardave car but didn't realise there was any further involvement.... of course at that time Mardave would have been the bigger manufacturer.

P.S; it was only the other week when I drove past 'The Rudge' in Church Brampton - I guess Cecil still lives there?

Dan, I remember seeing the meteor in the "beginners' section" of the French mags in the 80s but never got to see one in the flesh. Plus, as a teen, well, the more "technical" cars were simply more appealing (i couldn't afford either btw )

The ball diff technology is shocking though (no rings, whether for main balls or thrust). Might be a good cost cutting approach short term, but buying outdrives instead of spare rings kills a budget really fast. Then again for 99% of the users I assume a gritty diff sure wasn't an issue

Thanks for sharing all that great stuff!

Paul

That´s a very good choice on the paintscheme, really compliments the shocks and rims.

Lonestar wrote: The ball diff technology is shocking though (no rings, whether for main balls or thrust). Might be a good cost cutting approach short term, but buying outdrives instead of spare rings kills a budget really fast.

I may be wrong but didn't kyosho do the same thing (in a way) with their ball diffs? No diff ring per say just the hardened drive hub

I can completely understand the infatuation with wanting to mod this car to beat more sophisticated racers. So much potential in the simple design. I think I may have caught the bug myself now cause of your build.

Are the outdrive bearings metric or inch? A 30t 32p diff gear would be ~45t in 48p...same as a Stealth or Traxxas TRX1 diff gear.

Lonestar wrote:Then again for 99% of the users I assume a gritty diff sure wasn't an issue

Paul

I think that was the thing.... I know that since racing touring cars i've become obsessed with building free operating smooth diffs, yet in a buggy it is favorable for there to be some resistance (hence the need for thick oils/syrup in gear diffs) Back then, so long as there was some form of diff action & it didn't slip too much, thats all that seemed to matter.

At £6.50 for a complete diff unit it was often easier to buy a new diff than try & refresh an old one!

DerbyDan wrote: I think that was the thing.... I know that since racing touring cars i've become obsessed with building free operating smooth diffs, yet in a buggy it is favorable for there to be some resistance (hence the need for thick oils/syrup in gear diffs) Back then, so long as there was some form of diff action & it didn't slip too much, thats all that seemed to matter.

resistance is good somehow (hence why we don't use empty gear diffs these days). But on/off resistance like that driven by grittiness is a pain, it creates funny handling behaviors... especially on a 2wd

DerbyDan wrote: At £6.50 for a complete diff unit it was often easier to buy a new diff than try & refresh an old one!

of course, if that's all it takes, screw diff rebuilds, long live diff swaps

Paul

Excellent paint job, the car's look as a whole is very attractive and consistent! I'd probably clean up the rear tires, then it's ready for the money shots.

Coelacanth wrote:Excellent paint job, the car's look as a whole is very attractive and consistent! I'd probably clean up the rear tires, then it's ready for the money shots.

It's funny you should say that, I tried cleaning up the tyres, they are new but the white residue (what I presume is mould release agent) just won't budge even with a good scrub with warm water & washing up liquid