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Magnesium isn't very anodizing friendly.

I had a look at the original 870 manual, from wot i can tell the polished look is the norm as all the mag parts look very shiny ?

Yep to get a real smooth perfect finish i agree i would sand it but then your taking off some mag as well and those corners are a bugger to clean

I really just wanted the 20 years of gunk gone in the quickest way possible...plus as these cars will be runners its essier to clean dirt of a shiny smooth surface then just the dull rough bead finish i think... I was restoring 4 cars in a row also so bugger sanding by hand... I would still be there....

And got the clear coat ready to go... Its been almost a month and the parts are still shiny so i may just see hiw long it takes before they start to fade.. I'd only have to repolish which is a fairly quick process.

Also i guess my main point was to show a easier way to polish your mag if your that way inclined and dont want to do it the hard way and be discouraged was all... Looks good i reckon,,each to thier own... ..

Just ordered some wire brush attacments for the dremel, does anyone know where I can get the gold screws for the chassis , I managed to find some on ebay but they wont ship them to the uk

Tom7164 wrote:Just ordered some wire brush attacments for the dremel, does anyone know where I can get the gold screws for the chassis , I managed to find some on ebay but they wont ship them to the uk

If You´re referring to the counter-sunk aluminum screws - They are AE.

Yes the counter sunk gold ones, silly question but what does AE mean?

Tom7164 wrote:Yes the counter sunk gold ones, silly question but what does AE mean?

AE= Associated Electrics

Just search the right size on fleabay and they ahould pop up... They r crappy screws though,very soft alloy i think?..rcscrews has better ones...i put together a 'i need' list for a yz which had new everything x alot and he sorted real quick. Saves searching all over the net.

I managed to use the internet properly and found some on model sport uk I think it was.

Thanks guys

Managed to get a bit more done I stripped it down and cleaned everything, I have put the front end back together. Also the wire brush set came for the dremel which made cleaning the motor mount infinitely easier.

The new body has arrived I think I am going to go for the red box art paint job and black wheels.

Lookin good buddy!! Told u polishing with a dremel works miracles...

Got a bit more done today its all together more or less, I cleaned the rust off the dogbones with the dremel and the wire brush attachment but not 100% happy with it at the moment.

The new body has arrived and I am going to have a go at the red box art paint job I think. I still need to find a spur gear for it. When I find one I was thinking about casting another gear from it there are some good videos on youtube has anyone tried this?

also I might get carbon battery stays as I think the fibreglass ones look a bit out of place now or is that just me?

Thanks

Nice and clean. Good job!

If you have carbon towers and a carbon upper deck, then you might as well get carbon battery straps. Hold onto the fiberglass ones, though, because nobody makes repros of them. You can get carbon repros from Fibre-Lyte.

(**edit** you don't have carbon towers. Hmm...either go all carbon or all fiberglass IMO)

As for the spur gear, you should be able to use Kimbrough spur gears (e.g., http://www.amain.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_24_1023_1874/products_id/192311/n/Kimbrough-48P-Spur-Gear-77T). They have the diff ball holes which also double as screw holes for an application like the YZ10 or the older RC10s, where the spur is screwed directly into the hub.

I don't have tcs on the car it has the other kind of spur gear, the one that is a spur and the rear belt goes on it as we'll.