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For your shocks....

Tower part no LXJJ17 $2.29 is what you want for yor shocks.
All the seals and the clear plastic seal at the bottom.

Made by traxxas but will fit your old shocks.

You'll need two packages to fix all four shocks.

Thanks. Picture looks good for quantities but description of included parts doesn't match.

Here's where I'm at so far for parts --

Probably won't get #6605 though*

GodSpeed wrote:Bah...I'm probably going to order everything.

This is like a bottomless pit though. I've now read that #6614 idlers are better (updated, Black) than #6613 (and they better be for triple the price!)

I've heard that the new re-release #6613 is better than the old #6614.


And I now don't believe that #6617 comes with the pinion gear but I can find the one I need, #6621, on eBay. Being in Canada sucks for ordering stuff online though. I'm going to get killed with shipping and misc. fees.

6617 does come with the pinion.
6621, being an original gear, would probably need de-burring anyway.

You don't need #6605. Bushings do not cause accelerated wear to the bearing adapters.
Just keep in mind that you could save $55 de- burring the original gears, and that if shipping' s not too bad, you can get any screws, fasteners, o-rings, clips, even shock washers from McMaster.
Also, instead of paying $2.79 for a tiny tube of grease, why not buy a huge tube at a hardware or auto parts store for the same price?

The #6440 shock rebuild kit is for the newer associated shocks. It will accomplish rebuilding about half of each shock.

The Traxxas shock kit I reference has two key parts:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=LXJJ17&search=Go

-The two clear washers (next to the blue seals) are the replacement washers at the bottom of your shocks
-The large C clips which I'm sure you will undoubtedly bend the originals out of shape to remove the seal in your old shocks.

JPAE07 wrote:The #6440 shock rebuild kit is for the newer associated shocks. It will accomplish rebuilding about half of each shock.

The Traxxas shock kit I reference has two key parts:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=LXJJ17&search=Go

-The two clear washers (next to the blue seals) are the replacement washers at the bottom of your shocks
-The large C clips which I'm sure you will undoubtedly bend the originals out of shape to remove the seal in your old shocks.

I should just take your word for it and thank you for the advice. So, thanks!

This is for discussion purposes only then.

Yes, my 'C' clips are bent out of shape from removing them. I was hoping, aside from having to source new 'C' clips, which shouldn't be hard, that the #6440 kit had everything I needed and I'd just throw out those square'ish retainers for the new style shocks.

Tower's description says the kit includes, "various shims and bushings." I was hoping this was the additional parts I needed. Guess not huh, based on what you're telling me?

So just to clarify for sure, the Traxxas kit you've listed definitely comes with (4) o-rings and not 2 like the description says?? I need (8) to do all four shocks....as I'm sure you know.

What I need are:

8 o-rings
4 small nylon washers
4 large nylon washers
4 wide nylon spacers
4 'C' clips

The Traxxas LXJJ17 kit comes with all of this stuff? ....or half of it at least so I need to order x2 as you mentioned. The picture looks good; it's the description of what's included that worries me. Same, very much so, for #6117 but 85Edinger says I'm good to go there.

Here's a scan from my original manual --

Use both to make life easy. From the traxxas bags you want the large plastic disks and the retaining clips. From the associated rebuild kit use the large and small orings and small spacers.

85Edinger wrote:I've heard that the new re-release #6613 is better than the old #6614.

Very interesting...and good news. Thank you.

85Edinger wrote:6617 does come with the pinion.
6621, being an original gear, would probably need de-burring anyway.

Again, interesting and thank you.

gomachv wrote:Use both to make life easy. From the traxxas bags you want the large plastic disks and the retaining clips. From the associated rebuild kit use the large and small orings and small spacers.

Here is a thread where I rebuilt the shocks using the traxxas kit. I wouldn't recommend the orings or diaphragms, use the associated orings

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=33139

I'll read your thread. Thanks. How about, then, I buy x2 Traxxas kits and #5407 from Tower?

Is that a good solution?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2594&P=Z

*Edit - you say in the first post that you recommend using the Associated orange o-rings but then later say to USE the Blue x-rings (meant o-rings?) and that the Associated ones serve no benefit.

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?p=357209#p357209

I changed it, I don't like the way they sealed. They are an x ring not an oring, the cross section is different.

You can buy the cap and shaft orings separate if you prefer

I'll just buy the Associated kit and x2 of the Traxxas LXJJ17 kits as you've recommended.

My original shocks don't have a cap o-ring, but I can't see how it would be a bad thing to add them. Sounds like that's your suggestion.

Here's my updated list --

The washers didn't work well and that's why they got rid of em. You can still buy them on eBay but they are not a part I would use on a runner.

That body is almost always on eBay for $12 shipped, I have bought several. Tower isn't always the cheapest!

gomachv wrote:The washers didn't work well and that's why they got rid of em. You can still buy them on eBay but they are not a part I would use on a runner.

Oh, I don't use the large, protruding white nylon o-ring between the cap and body if I install rubber o-rings in the caps?

Will I have a problem doing it this way? My old manual lists the original caps as #6463 and I noticed new caps are #6450.

What's the difference?

Orings will fit in place of the washers. I don't recall the difference in the caps but they have switched colors and materials a few times. Original caps weren't necessarily cut for orings but they were sold aftermarket at the time and work fine with og caps.