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Do it Joey, bring them suckers out!

I got the motor plate issues sorted out tonight. Here's how it looked



It was bent more than you can really tell from the pics.
I got it pretty straight with my vice, using aluminum angle pieces as soft jaws to not mutilate it.

After I got that straight, I drilled and tapped the missing hole for the stealth on the 6 gear motor plate. Then I noticed when I put the slipper on it was rubbing on the two closest screws, which were sticking out about .030", as you can see on the screw to the left of the shaft here:


So I added a nylon .030 washer under the head of those two screws, which made it perfect


Plenty of clearance now!


Last, I straightened out the rear of the pan, that looked like this


Now I need to add some more limit washers to the rear shocks to get more outdrive-friendly droop. After that the car will be ready for thursday at the track. Hopefully this week I can make it more than a quarter lap before I break it

Setup question for you guys, for medium to high traction indoor clay, long wheelbase or short in the rear? Also, what shock holes in the rear arms, outer?

my car is short wheelbase & outside on the rear arms

Thanks Joey, I'll set it up like that. Rear shocks were on the 2nd from the outside arm holes, which was probably contributing to the excess droop.

agreed, that will mess up the rear end and soften it up too much as well....

next time, make sure you take a look at my rear shock set up, not brand, but geometry

I managed to run about half a pack through the gold pan last night before I broke it. Somehow I managed to snap a front axle



The car is a handful, much twitchier than my b4 or b44, it's going to take some getting used to, and probably more playing with the setup. The cool factor is through the roof though

inline hex axle too, not an off the shelf part.

motor down, the car will be more manageable & fun

Yeah, I may just convert it to round axles/blocks. I found a pair of hex inline axles on ebay for 13 bux, I may pick those up just to have, and then run the round set.

Here's some of my most recent carnage. I'm starting to think I shouldn't be driving this car

Found this earlier in the week when prepairing for Thursday track night. Okay, no big deal, I even had a spare.




Then from last night




Don't ask me how I broke both arms in one crash, I don't have any idea. I don't remember it being a particularly bad crash... I guess maybe ~25 year old plastic and my ever evolving driving skill are not a good combo.
I bought a set of rere World's arms at the track last night and I already had a set or original Worlds rear arms. I guess my car will just have black arms for a while. Maybe when I'm less crash-prone I'll go back to white, but in the mean time I need durability over the cool factor of white plastic.

On another topic, my car seems to push pretty bad in turns on power, where should I be looking in the suspension to dial in more on-power steering?

I am so jealous of you guys in that you have a few guys in your area who actually are into racing vintage cars. I will be trying to drum up a vintage race again at my local track but last time I had zero interest

Still using a full size pack? Try a short pack full forward against the servo

Yes, still using a full length pack. I guess I need more weight forward huh? I would think that since the car was designed to run full length it would be able to be tuned to turn with a full length pack?

probably could, but the car was designed around loose fluffy tracks too

I may be able to roll out this coming week, had graduations this week.

Cool, hope to see you out there, I sure could use some tuning tips. Good point on the surface they were designed for being different