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A few of mine over the past few years

Dont have a pic of my Classic, but here is my Worlds

Some nice cars. Thanks for all of the replies. You all seem to have more room that me....haha Weird.

I have mine all soldered up and stuck down with some serious 3M tape. They're not moving. I'll take some more pics.

Time to charge up the batteries and get this thing rocking. I haven't driven it since the late 80's so this should be fun.

I had the same speedo (with a different sticker and no fan) in my cars a while back, found more pictures:

I dig the servo layout man!

factory team gair wrote:DIALED:

Team Gair'"s Layout looks awsome has the look of the earliest set up...The B5s have the ability to Move batteries in that way.. He can keep the wt down and still have the wt shift action that kinwald is getting from the wt on the side of the batts, with a quicker slide of battery front to back for traction , and steering adjustments without doing a fulll Shock rebuild. This would be fun to try at the track. It didnt make as much of a change in the MID car but i might try it on the rear motor car...

Here's my latest layout.

I suppose I should posts pics of what I ended up doing. Away for the weekend, I'll do it early next week.

I'm seeing a lot of those tie rod/ball cup steering setups. Looks solid. I like it, but what exactly is the benefit?

Do I just need the two steering components to do the upgrade if I have tie rods, balls and cups lying around already?

Godspeed, there isn't much advantage unless you upgrade the bellcrank too.
Here are my Goldpan and my pink pan.
The Goldpan is currently being completely re-done, and turned back into a short arm.

85Edinger wrote:Godspeed, there isn't much advantage unless you upgrade the bellcrank too.

Ya sorry my fault for not being clear at all. I have extra tierods, balls and cups; do I just need the bell cranks now?

Does this setup just take any amount of slack out of the steering altogether?

How about the the TA plastic bell cranks vs the JConcepts bell cranks?

I recommended the Team Associated plastic bellcranks because they're cheap and they work well form what I've heard. I have no personal experience with them, but they seem to work fine for everyone that uses them.
I have an A&L bellcrank in my Goldpan. I bought it literally a week before The Intriguing Ad ran, right after I ran out of stock bellcrank parts. It's a very nice piece, but I probably would have saved the $20 and gotten an AE bellcrank had the timing been different.
I also have an MIP bellcrank in the Pb-10 that Scr8p put in, it's a nice piece but long since discontinued.
The advantage of the JConcepts or A&L bellcrank is supporting an aftermarket company that supports the Rc10, and looks. IMO the fluorescent green/ carbon fiber A&L and the colorful anodized aluminum JConcepts bellcranks look a lot cooler than the off-white AE ones.
Whatever you choose, don't overpay for bearings. You can get the A&L for $30 without bearings, or $45 with bearings IIRC. It needs four bearings that can be had for $1 apiece.

GreenHell wrote:I really dig Kinwald's layout and the use of AE TC6 weights, if I ever get around to building my re-re this is the direction I'm going.

I really like this layout too! If I had extra cash to throw away I would get some short packs and do this myself.

I'm just trying to figure out the milled slots for lightness that have weights in them.

I know, I have no idea about what's going on with that.

biitd we could only just make it to the end of a heat, and power was a lot less than now too...hence the milled chassis

with todays electrics, the milled chassis/ weight save isnt necessary, and can now afford to put balancing weights in to improve handling