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Ha! I love the ad too. This is a fantastic build!

Hey thanks guys. I had this thing out over the long weekend. I need to figure something out though. I been charging some 3300 nimhs on an old Tekin BC5a nicd machine and my run times suck running a 21t on a 90t spur, 17x2, LRP IPC. Motor not hot pretty sure it's the charging setup.
Mark.

So I put a Hobbywing 17.5 setup in this thing and I found out I could remove some battery box side panel from both sides. The space between the first front "pillar" and the antenna mount "pillar" is hacked out (tastefully of course) and then you can slide a shorty lipo transverse through the gap and help keep it in place with some servo tape and sandwiching between chassis and the top deck. I have a body repro body on the way. We will see if it fits but the battery fits within the chassis footprint. It's gonna be a height thing. No way of uploading pics at the moment. I am trying to run this on indoor turf and want to get some weight forward.

Mark

Snapped two front bulkheads at the track with the initial test driving. Didn't take much. I thought this thing came with an "unbreakable" guarantee!

I have one left but........."fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, well, uh,.....I can't be fooled again."

So the fix is to hack the center out of a Rustler/Bandit front bulkhead and trim the arm mounts to accept the TRX-3 arms (this is the hassle). It helps to have a genuine front bulkhead for reference. The upper and lower deck holes, and the shock tower holes all line up when you asslemble the front end. You do need to drill two new holes for the bumper though.

It is a two piece setup. But after the two pieces are screwed to the shock tower, the top deck, the bottom deck, and then the bumper......I drove it at the track for twice as long and went thru 200% fewer bulkheads..

A front tie brace would be optimal I need to make one as well. Duh.

that front brace would've been my first thing to do before putting it on the track. I've made my own for most of my cars I ran that didn't come with it. The nitrohawk was notorious for catching the tube or the wall with just a glance and tearing up the front bulkhead. That had a lot more width and rolling weight of the truck stuff but it didn't take much for me to destroy a trx1 the same way .

This thing did turn out killer though. I had thought about doing up a modernized trx3 lately but there isn't alot of 1/10 scale call for it locally. Really sux to run alone at the track or worse sux to run alone and have some guys jump on with their 1/8 scale buggys/truggys and squash you like a little bug .

Todd

OK gotta order some parts.

Front end changes coming up:

RPM Nitro Rustler front arms on a narrowed SRT bulkhead, no arm mount mod to keep the lower shock mount in alignment.

25 degree front blocks

SRT/TCP optional steering knuckles

Front brace.

Gotta get some body roll/traction roll/understeer sorted out. basically I need to increase the trackwidth and do some shock travel limiting (my favorite ). It jumps level but is obviously a little heavy in the rear.

A new body with a Parma PSE drip mask.

Got the front brace made.

Awesome! I want to try this

I really like this build with the LW transmission. The Traxxas probably diff is blah

TRX-1-3 wrote: ↑Sat Dec 31, 2016 4:32 pm Got the front brace made.

20161228_121223~2~2.jpg

I know this is an old thread, but did you have this made or make it yourself? any tips on making one for myself?

srobert910 wrote: ↑Wed Jun 11, 2025 9:37 am

TRX-1-3 wrote: ↑Sat Dec 31, 2016 4:32 pm Got the front brace made.

20161228_121223~2~2.jpg

I know this is an old thread, but did you have this made or make it yourself? any tips on making one for myself?

Well I got the fiberglass from an old TRX-3 top plate, then measured the hole spacing and determined the correct dia. drill bit. I think I even oriented the bulkhead with the arm mounts vertical and dropped the drill bit thru to confirm the hole spacing. Drilled the holes (not with the drill bit thru the arm mounts in the bulkhead) THEN cut the brace piece out of the top plate material. That way I could control the radiusing around the holes a little better than maybe a wondering drill bit if I had cut out the bar first. I roughed it out with a dremel cutting wheel and then dialed it in with some file and sandpaper work. Finishing /contouring the edges with some fine grit wet sanding. IIRC, I had to fine tune the holes just a tad with some light side pressure drilling/reaming. Basically I did it like I would have done it when I was 17, but more thoughtfully.

Oh, I just remembered, I roughed it out, drilled one hole, put a suspension pin in it, stuck that in the bulk head, then swung it over, lined it up and marked the second hole location with a drill bit down the other arm mount location in the bulkhead. Then drilled the second hole. Then finished shaping and sanding. Nothing's perfect!

I have a broken trx3 upper plate too. Thought I would use it to make one also. Thanks for the advice and explaining how you made it. Yours looks great.