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DePingus wrote:I pulled the gear box and diff apart.



I also finally found THIS...


As soon as I have some time at the office I'll scan and upload it somewhere.
It's the only vintage Ultima manual I couldn't find online.

Yes please or even an emailed copy. I just aquired an Ultima II over the weekend. emailed Kyosho just in case but they dont have any saved files for this. Plus they directed me back to this thread. lol

thanks.

alien3t wrote:Yes please or even an emailed copy. I just aquired an Ultima II over the weekend. emailed Kyosho just in case but they dont have any saved files for this. Plus they directed me back to this thread. lol

thanks.

Awesome! I'm famous over at Kyosho HQ!
I created a separate post just for the manual. Here are the direct links to the files.

JPEG Album
http://imgur.com/a/c8FfA

PDF
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1pl0b42t6jp9a8m/Kyosho_Ultima_II_-_Kit_3118_Manual.pdf

awesome thanks.

alien3t wrote:emailed Kyosho just in case but they dont have any saved files for this. Plus they directed me back to this thread. lol thanks.

Great to see Kyosho doing that! If it had been Tamiya, they would probably have sent their lawyers.

Finally! It feels like I've been waiting forever!

Modernization project continues!


I've taken a lot of things apart, cleaned, and reassembled. Like the transmission and diff. I also put new 40wt oil in the shocks. Those things had but a spit of oil left in them!
I do have some questions though...

First question, I have this new ESC...


And this receiver...


Originally, that receiver had the steering servo on CH1, acceleration servo on CH2, and a power switch on BATT. Now I don't know where to connect the new ESC. It has its own power switch wired directly into it. Do I connect the ESC to CH2 and leave the original power switch on BATT (effectively having 2 power switches)? Or do I remove the original BATT power switch and leave it empty? If I do end up with 2 power switches, which should I use as the "main" and which can I leave always on?

2nd question...
How do I mount this ESC? It doesn't have any screw holes like the original servo or MSC. Will double sided 3M tape hold up to the heat? Or is there a better option?

3rd qustion...
I've got ALMOST all the bearings in, but I don't know where these bearings go...

They're small and have a little lip on them. I've gone through the manual 3 times and didn't see them. Maybe its getting late and I've had a few too many...

Thanks again for taking a look and the advice. I can't wait to get this buggy back out there!

Here's my thoughts regarding your questions:

1. Plug the ESC into ch.2 and remove the old power switch. Just using the power switch on the ESC will be fine.

2. Double-sided tape will be fine, I use the spongy stuff that's about 2mm thick.

3. They look like front wheel bearings - did the Ultima2 run flanged bearings in the front wheels?

Alex

Incredible_Serious wrote:3. They look like front wheel bearings - did the Ultima2 run flanged bearings in the front wheels?

Thanks for info.

I went over the manual to check what the front wheels originally came with. 4x8mm bushings (2 per wheel). They are NOT flanged. I replaced those with 5x11x4mm bearings when I upgraded to the 2.2" Tamiya wheels and CRP axles.

I also went over the bearing kit to see what I have left. These flanged bearings are the same size as the front wheels, except they're flanged. I also have left over (4) 6x10x3 bearings. I thought those were the front wheel bearings, but now I see they're not the right size. So what could those be for? I don't see any bushings that size listed in the manual. The only bushing that didn't get a replacement was a long 4x8 that goes on the center gear shaft.

This is what came in the bearings pack and where they've been used so far...
(2) 8x14x4 - (2) diff
(6) 5x10x4 - (2) gear box, (4) rear wheel shaft
(4) 4x8x3 flanged - ???
(4) 6x10x3 - ???

And lastly, in the process of writing this post I checked to see what the original Kyosho bearing kit KYOC2194 brings...
(2) 8x14x4
(6) 5x10x4
(6) 4x8x3

From the picture and description, nothing looks flanged. It doesn't have any 6x10x3, and has 2 extra 4x8x3.

At this point I'm assuming these extra bearings are for different models and I have all the important bearings in. I'm inclined to delete the wall of text above, but I think I'll leave it for future reference.

I guess nobody knows what those spare bearings were originally intended for, but maybe the smaller flanged bearings could've been used with an upgraded steering bellcrank system? I guess this because 8mm O.D. seems too small to be used in most wheels. 5 x 10mm is the size used for Kyosho Optima hubs & steering knuckles, and I assume the Ultima front wheels too. A pair of 4 x 8mm bearings (unflanged) would be used inside the (stock) center gear when its inserted onto the shaft. Recall that the stock design uses a plastic collar between the bearings to keep them in position...I wonder if an aftermarket gear was used in place of the stock one, if it might've used a pair of flanged bearings on either side of the gear, which would've made the plastic separator collar unnecessary?

Just some ideas, it's all I got.

4x8fl were not used at all stock, but work wonderfully in the counter gear instead of the unflanged and spacer. The 6x10 were also not used anywhere. Not sure where they got their info lol!

Coelacanth wrote:A pair of 4 x 8mm bearings (unflanged) would be used inside the (stock) center gear when its inserted onto the shaft. Recall that the stock design uses a plastic collar between the bearings to keep them in position...I wonder if an aftermarket gear was used in place of the stock one, if it might've used a pair of flanged bearings on either side of the gear, which would've made the plastic separator collar unnecessary?

Here is the center gear assembly. Do you mean using 2 4x8 flanged bearings in place of the long 4x8 bushing and 2 M4 washers?

gomachv wrote:4x8fl were not used at all stock, but work wonderfully in the counter gear instead of the unflanged and spacer.

The counter gear has 2 5x10 bushings that I replaced with the appropriate bearings from the kit. I didn't see any spacers.

Yes, you can remove the washers and bushings as well as the spacer (that's the spacer I was referring to) and run bearings. I don't recall if you still need the oring or not, test for to see

DePingus wrote:

Coelacanth wrote:A pair of 4 x 8mm bearings (unflanged) would be used inside the (stock) center gear when its inserted onto the shaft. Recall that the stock design uses a plastic collar between the bearings to keep them in position...I wonder if an aftermarket gear was used in place of the stock one, if it might've used a pair of flanged bearings on either side of the gear, which would've made the plastic separator collar unnecessary?

Here is the center gear assembly. Do you mean using 2 4x8 flanged bearings in place of the long 4x8 bushing and 2 M4 washers?

Yes...assuming those bearings will fit snugly on either side of the gear, with flanges outward. Then you wouldn't require the bushings or washers as the flanged bearings should keep the shaft properly centered.

Awesome! I think they'll be fine except for maybe a little space on the inside between the bearings, where the flange doesn't let the bearing get all the way into the center gear. I imagine that gap between the bearings would be the width of 2 flanges. Or maybe not. I can stack the 2 flanged bearings and compare it to the height of the original bushing plus 2 washers stacked.

I'll give it try and report back soon. Thanks!

never mind the gap between the bearings on the inside of the gear. The flanged bearings are perfect for that application... to the point I never understood Kyosho persisted in offering non-flanged ones for this.