RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Dude,

Upon further reflection and ponderance, I believe 2739 is the way to go. However, if it is the older version of 2739 with the TRX PRO SERIES header card, there will not be the longer inner front axles and the "king pin" axle for the steering block/knuckle will be the correct length for the 2732 caster blocks.

The later TRAXXAS header card 2739 set is anyones guess. I know the TCP king pins are longer than the TRX-1 because of the ride height adjustment and were offered seperately as 2636. But I have ordered a few 2739 stainless kits in the past and have found the longer king pins and longer front inner pins in the same package but then also have found the shorter inner pins ...............................aaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!

Order a 2739 and go from there. Final thought.

Good luck.

Mark

I haven't followed the discussion fully... but axles aren't M3, more like 1/8"... which means you can also look into RC10/T parts

made some very few improvements lately...pictures when I will have moore time, sorry!
Question: is the actual rear bulkhead 4192 useable on the TRX1 ?

hugues

I don't know about the turnbuckle mounting locations, but I am willing to bet that the chassis mounting holes and the transmission "slot" are compatible. And the shock tower mounting holes look compatible. If the 1992 was used for the Eagles and the TRX-1, and pretty much the only difference with the 2692 is the wing tube holes, I think the 4192 will fit.

Mark

I've Just seen your answer. Thx.

I used new fiberlyte front shock mount. Except the chassis and the front brace, all new parts for the moment.
The thing is that my axles pack ref 2739 did not include the longer pin for inner front arms.... I used rear shafts that I have cut to get the right length. This way, I don't have the E-clip groove to fix it. I add some screws on the arm mount, but it do not fix it very well.




May be enough for the very little runs I will do with the car (eeven if hard runs!).
Sorry guys for my very slow build thread, but I have also a three 1/10th touring cars team to maintain (me and my 2 boys) and a local club to manage...
This will really be my year build!!!

Hugues

after you use that front tie bar you have to use a longer pin. If you can't find a 40 or 42mm hinge pin you can go to a 44mm like these here. They are also found in a t/e-maxx set which I can't find right off the top of my head right now. Did alot of the same thing with the front of my nitrohawks.

Todd

PAs mal du tout Hugues

what's that CWF front brace you're using?!?

Many thanks Todd. new front pins ordered.

For Paul, the front brace was in the car I recieved at home...not information at all about it. It's just a nice piece of rc racing history that I want to keep on the car.

ok... i thougjt it was a modern part! interesting... and sensible given the amount of slop in the front And the absence of a nrace of any kind on the stock design

you going to the VORN with that baby?

Paul

'the baby' will not be finished at this time!
In fact, I will not participate due to a lot of shamefull reasons .
Sorry not to be with all of you for this great event.

All these cool folks I was hoping to meet in real life... I might not go myself after all in the end then

Allez... viens!

[youtube]5SIQPfeUTtg[/youtube]

some more improvements here.
44 mm pins are a little too long, but are acceptable with some washers. I will keep it like that.
everything goes on the chassis plate with the classical A&L steering (second part re-used after the carbon chassis).
Yellow is flashing on the front side: So 90ees, I like it.
have to notice also the massive scews and nuts in the linkage. This is a real Meccano game kit.

oooops....it seems that I have taken a kind of delay with that project.

I got very bad black dye experience with battery cups, rear bulkhead and trans case in the summer. I decided to source new parts instead.
I have found an old but decent eagle in black. Surely a graupner, because it was on german bay.
This will help me to prgress a little, but not so much.

I am wondering a lot about transmission solution at this moment. My target is to use the truck tranny in order to put new gears in it and have no more risk for spares and 'old plastics' characteristics.
This have been done and described in a french forum
http://www.vintage-rc.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=15833
I like this idea a lot, but it has some bad sides: fixing holes different in the trans case, no possibility to fix the motor guard to the chassis, motor getting more backward than with standard TRX1 trans case.

I saw that French article the other day when I was doing my weekly "Traxxas TRX-1" Google. That is certain bulletproof transmission. But if it was my situation, I would keep the Eagle and rebuild it and just renew/rebuild the TRX-1 transmission. Is it finding the parts that is preventing?

Mark