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More pics...



You can see how narrow the rear is here...



and here:





Body cut and fitted...





Adding electronics...







I have some pics with the RC10T rear arms and the painted body on another camera but I can't remember where the card is. That's ultimately what I ended up using to get it running for initial testing. The stock arms and B4 hex wheels just weren't going to work the way I wanted in the rear.

My 3d printed wide (stockish looking) rear arms just got here and I got a dogbone solution for said arms going as well. Will get pics of that stuff this weekend once it's back together. Initial look at things though is positive!

I think a few more older pics and then the new stuff and we'll be all caught up. We had some nice 60° weather for a week or so as a teaser then we got 6+ inches of snow yesterday - first day of spring of all days - a nice kick in the jewels for sure. I'm so itching to get the cars back out! Sold a friend an RC10 over the winder so I'm curious to see what he's done with it and to race! (although I'm a bit scared of the "series connector" he texted me a pic of a couple months ago! lol) - either way, C'mon nice weather!!!!!

Pics of my OIN arms installed...









Custom Rear tower ...



RC10T rear arms installed and electronics done...









Custom Rear arms...Stockish looking - RC10T carrier mounting specs in order to fit the B4 hex wheels...



3D printed dogbones (stainless steel) - They fit perfect but we'll see how they perform...



Top To Bottom - RC10T, My custom, Stock RC10...



One arm mounted for comparison...







Both arms and other various pics...



I mounted the one arm the other day and I'm just noticing there must have been some oil on the shock (slow leak perhaps?)...can't believe how much the 3D printed arm absorbed it!





















Always loved the buggy image



Slicks next to off-road pin style (pro-lines)



You'll also notice an uncut chassis in the later pics...an initial test drive and a slight tap to the front resulted in some "bendage"...I trimmed too far forward for sure...

We are now up to date with pics...overall I'm super happy with it...seems to drive go so far but only had it out a couple times in the insane cold so hopefully soon I'll have more data on how she performs - might try to sneak out today but it's windy and still a bit cold so we'll see.

Enjoy...

Old school paint looks cool on that body

That turned out great!

Thanks guys. Stupid weather here still...ughhh.

Turned out killer Mike

I was afraid the chassis may be more likely to bend. I have two suggestions to consider for the new chassis:

1/8" sheet fiberglass strip from the rear bulkhead to the battery box. I will post a pic of a similar set up.

Another suggestion that I plan to do one fine day is to use 1/4" tube (same tubing as wing tubes and nose brace tubes) with a similar shape as the body inserted into the rear bulkhead and through to the nose.

Yes, the bends will compromise rigidity on impact but I imagine it must be better than no support at all.

I think you still have your rear arm mounts on backwards...

I don't think the stainless bones will hold up very long. the bone itself might be fine, but the stock bones are actually 3 peices, the bone, and two drive pins. the pins are hardened to stand up to the hardened out drives. next spin of the bones might be better to make the bone and leave holes on the ends for installing the hardened drive pins. then you will have guys asking you to make them custom lengths bones all the time, hahhahha

I am happy to say I took it out for a blast the other day and everything held up. I was spinning off the line so I didn't get a good hook to fully test the dog bones but so far so good. The slicks are still ballooning too much for my liking so I think I'll go with foam. It's really fast though. Hopefully next time out I'll try to measure speed. My other car with a similar setup went 41mph with a 9.6v NiMH and this has a 3S and is geared a bit taller - 78/30.

I also noticed at speed I'm definitely dealing with aerodynamics. The front end gets light at speed and I've decided it's the wing. It's definitely WAY better than a stock setup RC10 with regards to wheeling though. My other car wants to come up instantly with the same motor/battery/gearing combo. So overall I'm super stoked about this configuration. With the wing removed it's less light in the front but it's very unstable at speed. I'm thinking about a sheetmetal wing that's flat with higher than normal sides for stability. The ballooning tires aren't helping for stability either. Also toying with the idea of a front bumper something like the attached but not sure.

Certainly open to ideas on keeping the front end down - short of a wheelie bar that is. (I do have one though but want to avoid using it)

No videos of this car but a couple quick launches with my RC10 "pan" car. 8.5T motor, 3S geared short...90/25! Foam tires with mini mags. She hooks real nice - LOVE it!

[youtube]ejV9-aJWjbc[/youtube]

knucklebuster wrote:Turned out killer Mike

I was afraid the chassis may be more likely to bend. I have two suggestions to consider for the new chassis:

1/8" sheet fiberglass strip from the rear bulkhead to the battery box. I will post a pic of a similar set up.

Another suggestion that I plan to do one fine day is to use 1/4" tube (same tubing as wing tubes and nose brace tubes) with a similar shape as the body inserted into the rear bulkhead and through to the nose.

Yes, the bends will compromise rigidity on impact but I imagine it must be better than no support at all.

Thanks! I think now that I have an uncut chassis I'll be ok...but I'm always open to new ways to brace the chassis.

Bottom Feeder wrote:I think you still have your rear arm mounts on backwards...

Yeah I forgot I ended up going this way. When mocking up I measured wheelbase...but when final assembling I noticed wheelbase was shorter...so I switched back...I wanted as much wheelbase as I could get - and for speed runs it will be fine...when/if I decide to race in the dirt I can always switch it back

jwscab wrote:I don't think the stainless bones will hold up very long. the bone itself might be fine, but the stock bones are actually 3 peices, the bone, and two drive pins. the pins are hardened to stand up to the hardened out drives. next spin of the bones might be better to make the bone and leave holes on the ends for installing the hardened drive pins. then you will have guys asking you to make them custom lengths bones all the time, hahhahha

I am skeptical too but it was worth a shot - just for the cool factor of 3d printing metal! lol. Do you think the stock RC10 drive wheel pins would work? (or are they not hardeded? - I like this idea for future reference if these end up failing...where can I get hardened pins?)

Bumper idea to help keep the front end down...
Enjoy!

you should be able to press the stock dogbone pins out with a press or vise and some creative spacers.

Nice work, the car came out really cool! I like the printed bones! You may be able to find hardened pins of the right diameter and length at McMaster-Carr, worth a look. Then just print the bones with holes, a little undersize, ream them for press-fit, then press in.

Killer video! Holy holeshot Batman

knucklebuster wrote:1/8" sheet fiberglass strip from the rear bulkhead to the battery box. I will post a pic of a similar set up.

This set up is about as stiff as the standard RC10 without a trans brace.

I'm with LTO, that rear brace gives that car a very unique look! Very cool.

Thanks everyone! Better pics of the car completed. Ordered some custom sized foam tires too. Will update with pics and results when they come in. Back to being cold and rainy here so won't be for a while.