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You should've used PB Blaster, you would've saved yourself about 29 days. WD-40 isn't very effective as an anti-seize.

SMOKE-DOG wrote:So after I put the axle in a tub of WD40 and forgetting about it for a WHOLE MONTH, I finally got the hub to move with a little prying. I ruined the shims, scratched up the hub and the bearing is still stuck to the axle. Anyone know the part # for the shims and the bearing size on the rear axle?

Does your axle mount look like this one? If so you need 1/4 X 3/8 flanged x 2. You can use any 1/4" thin pan car axle shims. I've seen some cars with larger bearings that I forget the size for at the moment. Sand off the rust on the axle before trying to remove the bearings and it'll go a lot easier. You can also use steel wool if the rust and gunk isn't too bad. If you need a replacement hub I may have a spare.

I think the original large bearing is 1/4 x 5/8 flanged.

V12 wrote:I think the original large bearing is 1/4 x 5/8 flanged.

Thanks, taking note of that myself.

2 years later...

I finally decide to get this done. Bearings are 1/4x5/8, no flange. Gave the white parts a peroxide bath and wiped down the chassis. Wiped it down soo good I accidentally took off the "TOP" stamp...





Is this ball Diff an AE part? Am I missing anything? Took it apart soo long ago, I can't remember. I thought it was odd the Diff half just pressed into the wheel and didn't have screws to attach it.

Cleaned up pretty good. I wanted to replace the top deck and bumper but they came back well enough and plus I wanted to keep it as original as possible. The team checkpoint motor label was done so it was removed and the motor cleaned up a bit.