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Thanks for the comments guys. For once I decided I'd shoot as many pics as needed to document the build, but the trade-off is that they're crappy

I made some progress the past few days

As everyone keeps mentionning how bad the stock steering is, I decided to mount some Worlds Car bellcranks.

Ready for transplant:


halfway there. White plastics looking about genuine, btw!


I had read you guys use the front screw holes to assemble the steering - problem is, they are not countersunk, so the screw heads stick out. As I didn't want to butcher perfect, new screws for this I used some older ones which were already scratched. I hammered the edge slightly so they would represent less of a sharp edge at the front, but to be honest, I think this is wishful thinking. Then the sharpie treatment


Looking good from the top. Worlds Car steering design is super sweet and smoothe, esp. with bearings


Now - still have to fix the nose plate to the chassis, whilst keeping the stock steering assembly screw set complete for a future build if needed. This is where my friend Mrs. Dremel (note it's a US version from my US years which I carried back to WE... I love it!)

Before:


After:


Now bolted on to the chassis:


Off to the spares box:


Front body post brace: what a great design, unbreakable, plus looks good!


And on the front bulkhead:


Always forget the front tubes Note the washers... esp. the inside ones, otherwise there was a nasty bend.


(saving for now and moving to another post)

<continuing>

As I went back upstairs for a sec and came back, I realized my workbench is a mess


Anyways - back to the build

New rear bulkhead, more Lipo-friendly... but with a surprise next. Stay tuned.


I give him the usual treatment as no "normal" wrench fits between the (useless for 10T) tubes molds to mount the ballstuds. It is painful to do on an original part, but on a re-re, a lot less


Mounted on chassis - not the "inside" washers too. Still, chassis is straight... go figure.


With the Stealth:


Again, strange chassis... bigger gap than usual between chassis and motor plate, both of them still looking ok on their own:


It's a runner - it must be robust. Stylish, too, as a bonus


And now, the surprise. WTF?!?


Question to you of re-re experts (haven't built one yet): it looks like not only the "lower plate" in the bulkhead design was removed to accept lipos, but also that the overall bulkhead's height was reduced. with a genuine stealth case, that's an issue. Or is it by design?!?

extra washers to the rescue... but still...


On to the rear suspension:


(saving and moving to another post)

Original UJ's are in good shape, about zero slop


Ok... now is time... <sigh>


Half-done


Jeez, at last... what a PITA


More next time

Paul

Nice build details. With the rear tranny brace, it is always a gap problem even for original parts. The washers on the nose tubes and sides of the rear bulkhead are interesting, I have never thought of this! The gap between the motor plate and chassis has always been a problem and easily solved with a washer or two. You could also remove the tranny and gently bend the motor guard part of the chassis, but this risks tweaking the suspension mount part of the chassis.

Rod, Thanks for your input. i've (re-)built my share of RC10's but this is the first time I come across such a BIG gap between brace and bulkhead... chassis is flat and straight. I just dont get it?!?

I'm back... Thread resurrection, almost a year after... let's just say I had a 1:1 project which sucked a lot of energy (and money) out of me over the past half-year, or so... Plus I didn't want to stop my RC racing either, so the vintage cars had to wait a bit on the backburner.

Now that things are settling down on that front, I find a bit more time to work on RC again.

Yesterday I pulled the 10T out of its project box for the first time since late-may I think... I can't remember what I had left to do other than the obvious... but I started putting more of these RPM heavy-duty rods on the Tecna's, as so far it was missing a few.



And after a bit of time, and me getting on a roll again, here's what it looks like.



It sports a re-re WC rear bulkhead for running lipos easier, and RPM cover (too white). Next stps is redoing the shocks as I had #1 pistons all around, then electronics.

Quik resto for sure I used losi button head 8/32 screws for the worlds steering an ae steel 8/32 *1/4" flat head screws for the nose plate on my runner just for looks and strength

By my standards, a year isn't bad in the end

Needless to say I didn't go race this baby to the summer '15 Vintage Off-Road Nats like I had planned to... I'm gunning for this year... but then again who knows what's gonna happen this time

Anyways... shock built yesterday, #2/#1 35/30 Silver/Green F/R. One of the threads in the caps stripped, needs to be replaced. I secured it with varnish but this is temporary only.



On to the electronics shortly... Setup will be Hobbyking V2.1 120A clone, Orion 10.5T, some older (not too old though!) 2386 KO servo that I'm not racing anymore but is clearly up to truck steering standards, entry-level (cheap) Orion Lipos that I already have in stock, and my older and trustworth EX10 + R302F (I have like 7 of them...) racing setup...

Then the body, and wheels (Edge + Bow-Ties) in Lonestar paint scheme, ie yellow/white/black/silver

Then this will be yet another shelf queen I'm afraid

Nice write up! I have a 10T (or 2) in boxes that I will eventually get to. I'll be using this thread as inspiration

What wheels and tires are you going to run? I have a C stamped RC10t that I want to get cleaned up and run.

Making minor progress one step at a time...



Stand-up LP servo with WC steering should be the most geometrically reasonable solution. It did require drilling/countersinking the chassis, which I hate... but that's the way it is. The plan is to run a shorty, too.

We're getting there... if you use this as inspiration, at least try to work faster than me

Wheels: some 1-pc AE wheels iirc. They're still in the bag of parts I bought more than a year ago for this project.

But as said, it won't be long now. Electronics are almost done

Electronics installed: 10.5T Orion (I have a few of these as they were our spec mills in DTM a few years back), one my trustworthy KR302F that goes with my EX-10 that is still working like on the first day it was pulled out of the box, and a XCar 120A, perfect clone of a HW 2.1. I've raced these without any afterthoughts and they are the best bang for the buck you can get for a BL setup.



Shorty battery, of course - although I've drilled the chassis to accept a normal "brick" (not stick any more...) pack in case I want a more front-loaded weight bias.



The shocks are also back on the car - I've used anti-popping-ballcups washers, and cut a few 4-40 CHS to be at the perfect length too.



I have not cut the battery wires as much as I could have had - just in case I need to reuse this speedo. Soldering new wires to the PCB is too much of a PITA, if you ask me.

Here's the ref of the rims I will use if anyone needs them.



Now, off to the body...

Paul

More progress... actually more progress over the past week than the past year

First - nothing, I say NOTHING beats the looks of a white bumper on a Team Truck:


Now, a few words on fitting a body to a car (not just a 10T). This is something that keeps coming up as a Q on the forums, so here is MY take on it. I'm not saying it's the best, but I've been in RC for 30+ yrs now, so I think I've learnt a few tricks, although not all. This is how *I* do it.

I fit BEFORE I paint. This allows to (1) do it better as you see through the stuff and (2) save the paint from the cutting tools.

Needed for cut:
- Clear Body (TBG repop in this case, I do with what I have, Jay is not with us any more...)
- New-bladed X-acto



Apply pressure as you follow along the cutting lines, on the OUTSIDE of the body - you want to cut through the protective film. You don't want to cut through the body though. This means having a steady hand btw, so make sure both the (car) body and your wrist are resting on something solid so you don't rip...



Then initiate the cut with scissors (in this case lexan body scissors)


And then carefully start tearing the body out... as you've cut through at least part of the lexan, the tear will follow the line. This is whyyou need a steady hand with the blade, because if you screw up the cut, the tearing will go in that (wrong) direction:


Front end done


All done now.


Frankly, this is the EASIEST way to cut a body. All it takes is a blade, and a steady hand. Forget those scissors marks forever

Now, time to drill the body for the posts.

Needed tools:
- Body reamer
- holes marker



This Turnigy kit has it all, but really nothing beats the good ole Hudy Special reamer, especially when engraved with your name... I've had this one since the last millenium, I've tried many reamers, this is the only one that "turns" rather than "cut into" the lexan. Best design and materials


The turnigy kit, like most such designs, is designed for 6mm posts, but has inserts for 5mm posts. Well, the 10T's post are somewhere in between, so you have to press-fit the 5mm insert somehow...


Same on the front, then you slide on the magnet inserts:


Then you position the body, and drop on the top-side magnets and let them sit on the magnet inserts:


then you mark the holes with a sharpie, then use the reamer to make the hole, and voila:


On the 10T, two mods that must be done for a proper fit at the front:

First, the front bumper screws hit the lexan:


Second, the front fenders hit the lower shock mount screws:


Here's how *I* fix it:

Dremel a notch in the lower grille part:


fixed!


Then a good cut with the scissors to free up some space around the shock parts:


Et voila


Now off to the dreaded paint job part!

Paul

Nice write up Paul.

Looking good so far...can't wait to see what paint you decide to go with. Keep us posted

Todd

This is great, WHEN I build a 10T, I'll follow this!