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I cleared a spot off for my 2 NIX builds. Here's a quite before shot lol

I picked up the parcel today, it had some funny writing on it... all I could make out id Finland, so I'm guessing it's from Niki thanks Niki!!!

My plan is to retire my graphite runner that I have setup for indoor carpet tracks. All the electronics and the shocks will come off of it and onto the 10M. I've got some good plans for this chassis, stay tuned
Chocolate Lab photo bomb lol, the camera even focused on his face and not the car...that's my Guinness, my goodness.

Here's the motor plate I plan on using. I got it from a member on here years ago. It's flat surface makes it' a shoe in for the build.

Where can I get some of that glitter fiberglass material? I had an Alex Racing Barracuda R3 (pink anno) with it and loved the looks. I have never been able to source it for projects. I would love to have a Ten4 and NIX10M in this material.

pumpkinfish wrote:Where can I get some of that glitter fiberglass material? I had an Alex Racing Barracuda R3 (pink anno) with it and loved the looks. I have never been able to source it for projects. I would love to have a Ten4 and NIX10M in this material.

I wish I knew, I even looked back on my build thread on the other buggy when I got it and there's no mention of it. I would search the PMs, but the older ones are deleted to make room for the new PMs.

I got some Worlds rerelease shocks on, low profile servo, and gathered some parts I have laying around. It turns out I need more for this build than I thought. I hope I have a spare stealth trans sitting around

I need some front arms

The glitter carbon can be purchased from DA Graphite, but it was ridiculously expensive. It's left over from bitd but he had a few sheets. He called it Iridium Rainbow

http://www.dagraphite.com/

A star galaxy RC10......

You couldn't get any more retro then that

I've gotten the body partially trimmed. It turns out that I don't have any rear inside hinge pins to mount the arms and I have some CVDs somewhere, but until them I can't trim the bottom of the body.

Looking good

When the body is painted make sure you put some chassis tape on the body where the tube mounts are.

Thanks for the tip, that was necessary on the NIX91 as well with that upper deck.

I've got the trimming done, just got to smooth out the edges now. I'm liking almost all of the body lines with the JC body and how it meshes with the 10M.

Old and new nicely mixed. Can't stop liking it

I'm thinking about using as many B4 and B5 parts as possible. I like the B5 turnbuckle ends instead of the ball cups and studs. I am thinking B5 hubs and knuckles too, but I don't own a B5 to see how to mesh the parts. These are just ideas at the moment.

Just remember b5 is metric. So hubs take a metric bearing. different axle than b4. If you like the rod ends on the b5. use b4 ball studs since SAE but could run j concepts rod ends. they ar eopen so can still use a driver through the top to unscrew and change settings. B5 i think are a little bigger than b4 ball studs.

alien3t wrote:Just remember b5 is metric. So hubs take a metric bearing. different axle than b4. If you like the rod ends on the b5. use b4 ball studs since SAE but could run j concepts rod ends. they ar eopen so can still use a driver through the top to unscrew and change settings. B5 i think are a little bigger than b4 ball studs.

Maybe I'm best to stick to B4 stuff and use the JConcept ball studs and cups.

https://www.jconcepts.net/shop/jconcepts-ballcup-assortment-rib-and-wedge-36pc
https://www.jconcepts.net/shop/jconcepts-440-x-300-ballstud-6pc

Looks already like a very spicy (not to say hot, ) trick build!