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I do have the manual, just bought it new, Ill have to check and see if thats in there.

I do have some issues though, pretty sure my old crystal receiver is not going to work with the new electronics. Yay! More $! Any recommendations?

Also, the #7383 cvd kit will not work with stock wheels. Are there axles that work with both original wheels and newer style wheels or am I stuck swapping axles if I want to run stock wheels?

Would this be the kit to run stockers? http://www.amazon.com/MIP-Cvd-Kit-Axle-1008/dp/B0006N6T56/ref=pd_sbs_21_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0MP61T4K2V8AS1BWYD3V

Hi,

I have this 2.4 GHz radio system which is a Tower Hobbies re-branded Tactic, and it works very well

for my runners.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWPW0&P=ML


I see Tactic have this futuristic looking 2.4 GHz radio system cheap, but I have not used this one.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=&FVSEARCH=se2180


Cheers, Dave.

Hi,

That is the correct kit for 1/4" axles and rims #1008.

Originals were 1/4" axles, later were 3/16" axles.

I use 3/16" rims and axles on my runners, I leave 1/4" for a shelfer.

Cheers, Dave.

Beautiful truck. I love the painted body.

I am just about to rebuild my original RC10T as well. I am getting a lot of good info from posts like yours. I will be starting a build thread of my own soon.

Keep the pictures coming.

Nice project,

just to put things in perspective, running a 2s lipo already is comparable to running 7 cells of the old NiCad or NiMh batteries. Add the 9.5T brushless, you're already going to be WAY faster than this ever went before.

Running a 3s with this motor will be close to the equivalent of running 9-10 Nicad cells on a 11T modified motor, without adding the weight of the 10 cells.

I don't want to discourage you or anything, just warn you that the truck will be close to uncontrollable. Make sure your first ride has enough open space.

Good luck and have fun.

Thanks for the info guys. Atomik thinks my receiver should work so I am going to play around with it more if I ever get the time. Ill also get some more pics up when I make some more progress.

Yes I know its going to be pretty knarley. Ill probably buy a couple 2s's for regular use and just use the 3s when I want to go full potato. My brother picked up a Helion Invictus and challenged me to an offroad straight line drag race. He upgraded it to 3s and toasted the motor on its maiden voyage. lol He is 4wd too so its going to be interesting.

Great build. I will be following.

Plugged my bro's receiver into my esc and sure enough it works fine. Looks like I am getting a new receiver/transmitter. Thinking about keeping it TA and getting this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F14R9BS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=AZC10Z4SLMKX9

Still waiting on some bearings and the axle kit, then I should have this junk running.

Will a rc10gt body fit on my rc10t?

This is enticing me..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-BODY-SHELL-FOR-TEAM-ASSOCIATED-RC10-GT-AIRBRUSHED-/351478097339?

No, the rear shock towers are much farther back on the GT.

Got her all done last week and broke an axle on the maiden run. lol This thing is freaking fast!

Fixed it and now having issues with the slipper clutch. Trying to decide whether to get an eliminator and the steel idler or go to the B4 slipper. Any advice?

Vid: https://video-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hvideo-xfp1/v/t42.1790-2/11920709_10153635604339113_246028098_n.mp4?efg=eyJybHIiOjk2MSwicmxhIjo1MTJ9&rl=961&vabr=534&oh=d559683a07bc6013451116087e47d1cc&oe=55DF2B1F

Well I tightened down the slipper and it goes ok now, but still slips if i get on it too hard and i have the burst power at like 50%. I think i am going to go for the B4 slipper setup.

The other issue that i thought was a problem being caused by slipper is still happening. Under load the esc will shut the power down for about 5 seconds after a few minutes of running. It did not do this on the street, but with beefier tires in the grass it started to do it. Heat was my first thought, but the esc is cool to the touch and the motor warm, but not hot like i would expect it would be to require a shutdown like this. Plus it only takes like 3-5 minutes of running for it to happen. Next, I used the program card to disable the overheat protect to test if that was the issue and it did not make a difference and it still shutdown. I checked the trans and diff and everything seems to be spinning freely, so no binding. Anything else i can check or could this be an issue with the esc?

Going down to a 2S battery to see how it reacts. Guess Ill just have to buy an 1/8th scale to use the 3S batteries in! lol

Also went with the B4 clutch with the VTS slipper conversion. Yet to be tested cause I had a crash at about 40mph and cracked a rear arm mount and bent a turnbuckle and the hing pins. So, theres another hundo on titanium hinge pins, titanium M3 turnbuckles with spherical ball ends, rpm arms, and aluminum arm mounts. I seriously have an addiction.

How many tooth spur gear did my truck come with? The B4 one is much smaller at 81T. I am running an 18t pinion. Is this going to be too torquey for a 9.5t motor? Id like to be able to accelerate without flipping it immediately.