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clm wrote:The stainless washers might look good with the standard black oxide screws?

I like that idea, I'm going to give that a shot. Thanks for the input.

I picked up these black nose brace tubes the other day and just put them on the tub.
Now it's time to start working on the rear end.

How about the Worlds ReRe nose tubes? They have a NICE gloss black finish

clm wrote:The stainless washers might look good with the standard black oxide screws?

silver washers and black screws always go well together

Looking back at the pictures I see that in later ones you are using a re-release nose plate, is the chassis original or re-release? If the chassis is original how is the color match between the two?

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tamiyadan wrote:from my experience:

the RERE gold nose AE looks like they tried to match the more early chassis anodized color.
the later gold chassis is brighter and more orange. the early is more grey and dull.

side by side the color is very starkly different between the CE coloring and the re-release coloring.

in Md_RC10's photo above you can see the difference between the nose and main chassis. looks like he is using the old CE type chassis and the new reproduction nose.

tamiyadan is correct....The chassis is an OEM CE chassis. The re-release nose plate doesn't really match up at all. I do have an NOS
nose plate that I plan on using on a cleaner chassis.

I finally got all the parts needed to rebuild the rear shocks.
All new internals, rods, springs, and spring clamps.

Couple of updates with the buggy here.....
I have installed the rear shocks along with the rear wheels/tires. I am holding off on doing the final adjustment on the rear shocks for now.



Before that was completed I installed the rear JConcepts turnbuckles/struts along with the new Race Prep superdogbones, dogbone springs, and spacers. The rear hubs had new bearings installed before being placed back on the A-arms.







I also picked up this new JG Mfg. RC-10 skid plate / front bumper and installed that on the nose plate.











I just need to install a couple more things and get a new battery and I think it will be ready to run.

Can anyone direct me or recommend a place where I can get a painted body for this buggy???

Andy's bodies on ebay are treat quality for the money. He has been doing up quite a few lately. Check out some of Andy's bodiesand you pry won't be dissappointed. If he doesn't have any rc10 at the moment keep an eye out for him since he's been pumping out the renegades quite regularly...

Todd

klavy69 wrote:Andy's bodies on ebay are treat quality for the money. He has been doing up quite a few lately. Check out some of Andy's bodiesand you pry won't be dissappointed. If he doesn't have any rc10 at the moment keep an eye out for him since he's been pumping out the renegades quite regularly...

Todd

Thanks Todd.....

I was messing around with these T.Q.-70 front tires and decided to mount them on these wheels that I picked up awhile ago. I had to set the tires out in the sun to get them soft enough to work them on the front wheels. Anyways, just looking at my options of what wheel/tire combo I want to go with.

I did notice that if I was going to run these front wheels that I would need to use a little bit of a longer front axles. Look at my last photo.









Just as I am typing this I noticed that if I use bearings that don't have a flange that would probably resolve the axle issue......

Lovely wheels. Any more details?

I realize this is an older post, but I had to say, that is a great looking kit. I really like the stealth CE and the all white plastics look great.

Did a little work on the buggy......
I pulled Dhawk steering cranks off and substituted in a Houge set off of a parts buggy I had sitting around.
Then I pulled the stealth transmission off the chassis and tighten down the hub assembly. Once I re-installed the
transmission and tested the RC10 it now seems a lot more responsive than before.