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Silver shocks on an XXT indicate it may have once been a sport model.

sunshineFC3s wrote:Anyone clue me in to what this is, how it's used? I think it's some sort of adapter from Kimbrough Racing.

That looks like a spur gear adapter. I have one for on my LRM. Its used without a slipper or hydra so that you can use a wider variety of spurs.

Thanks guys!

Another question...during disassembly and cleaning, I'm noticing that the rear carriers contain bushings, and the front has bushings in the wheels because the stub axles are fixed. Is there a bearing upgrade for these (both front and back)?

Depending on how much the bushing car was ran, grooves could have developed in the axle(s). If that has happened, you will have to replace the front and rear axles. They will have grooves that installing a bearing will not fix.

shoman24v wrote:Depending on how much the bushing car was ran, grooves could have developed in the axle(s). If that has happened, you will have to replace the front and rear axles. They will have grooves that installing a bearing will not fix.

OK, cool. I will examine my axles a bit closer but I think they looked ok. Double checked the manual, looks like they list bearings, not bushings. Another "trim" inconsistently.

The XXT had a version that came with bushings, which I believe what your XXT started out as. Lack of Hydra-Drive, silver shocks, bushings, pink springs and so on. A box stock XXT-CR Graphite would have had the hard anodized shocks, pink rear springs, red fronts, dual disk slipper, MIP CVDs and some other odds and ends. From most of the pieces you have, it looks like a Bushing Kit that was upgraded with different parts over time, due to breakage or whatever. The fact that you have the graphite chassis but don't have the solid battery hold down, rather you have the original velcro straps, points to a replaced chassis. The strap was a separate item, didn't come with the chassis. Some of the other parts point to it having been driven really hard into something, breaking the original chassis and front end parts that tend to fly apart when that occurs.

Of course it could just be a hodge podge of parts. Pretty sure I could recreate exactly what you have just by dumping some spare part bins together.

Normally the only time you'll get grooves in the axles will be because of grit between the bushing and axle. The bushings are softer that the axles, so normally the bushings would wear out, becoming looser. The axles will have discoloration but are usually fine, just clean them up nice and you're good to go. If it was run over and over with looser bushings and got material between, like sand, then you'll have some grooving.

3/16" X 3/8" bearings are what you need for the wheels and the rear hubs. 8 of them. Manual is goofy about how they list them, parts list on the explode says 2, but each LOSA6903 package had 2 bearings in it. But you need 8, so it should say 4. Probably an ancient typo. Even the Bushing Kit explode has it wrong.

This explode is for the XXT you are pretty much working on: http://vintagelosi.com/Explodes_files/xxtb.pdf

knixdad wrote:The XXT had a version that came with bushings, which I believe what your XXT started out as. Lack of Hydra-Drive, silver shocks, bushings, pink springs and so on. A box stock XXT-CR Graphite would have had the hard anodized shocks, pink rear springs, red fronts, dual disk slipper, MIP CVDs and some other odds and ends. From most of the pieces you have, it looks like a Bushing Kit that was upgraded with different parts over time, due to breakage or whatever. The fact that you have the graphite chassis but don't have the solid battery hold down, rather you have the original velcro straps, points to a replaced chassis. The strap was a separate item, didn't come with the chassis. Some of the other parts point to it having been driven really hard into something, breaking the original chassis and front end parts that tend to fly apart when that occurs.

Of course it could just be a hodge podge of parts. Pretty sure I could recreate exactly what you have just by dumping some spare part bins together.

Normally the only time you'll get grooves in the axles will be because of grit between the bushing and axle. The bushings are softer that the axles, so normally the bushings would wear out, becoming looser. The axles will have discoloration but are usually fine, just clean them up nice and you're good to go. If it was run over and over with looser bushings and got material between, like sand, then you'll have some grooving.

3/16" X 3/8" bearings are what you need for the wheels and the rear hubs. 8 of them. Manual is goofy about how they list them, parts list on the explode says 2, but each LOSA6903 package had 2 bearings in it. But you need 8, so it should say 4. Probably an ancient typo. Even the Bushing Kit explode has it wrong.

This explode is for the XXT you are pretty much working on: http://vintagelosi.com/Explodes_files/xxtb.pdf

Thanks, knixdad! I think you are 100% right. All the parts on the car seem to point to a sport model that took some damage at some point and got an upgraded chassis. I will definitely upgrade from the bushings.

Here is my progress thus far...chassis and part of the suspension. I used #60 natural pistons and 50wt oil. I will build another set (silver) with the red #56 pistons, with 35wt oil. We'll see what works better on the surfaces I will run. I also have a pair of silver, a pair of black, and four blues springs. Im assuming this chart is correct?
Thanks!

30W is usually the sweet spot if you are looking to keep it simple. Also, that chart of springs is not correct as far as colors and weights; correct spring lengths are 2" for front and 2.5" for rears.

Hey guys,

Not a ton of progress recently (just welcomed our second child!). However, I do have a few questions as I tinker for a few minuted here and there...

1) EDIT - I think I worked this one out myself. Original question had to do with the the -2 CR style rear skid plate pairing with the standard XX-T neg degree carriers (which is what I have). So, that gave me double negative toe. Ill be searching for the 0 toe rear carriers to use with my CR style mount.

2) Diff - In prior posts, several of you told me to crank down on the diff as much as possible. I did that and stripped the loc-nut. How much is too much when cranking down on the diff? Can you move the gear by hand, or should it feel "seized"?

3) I have two ESCs to choose from - Tekin Speed Star (seems to be in great shape), a Futaba MC 112 B (3rd is a Tekin Sport in rough shape, bottom of case missing). Any advantage of one versus the other?

4) I'm posting up the motors I have as well. Maybe you guys can suggest the "best" pairings to the above ESCs. As pictured, a SpeedGems Chromium, SpeedGems2, Perfect Wound Competition Motors, Warlock WFO, X-Star, last is one that has "race prep" stamped into the case.

Sorry for the poor wording. I'm severely sleep deprived. Thanks!!!

Question relating to the rear inner hinge pins...I found two pins in my parts lot: 1) has a single e-clip groove cut and 2) no grooves cut and is a bit longer. Both appear to be the same diameter. I think the one with the single groove is the stock steel inner rear pin. But whats the other one, and how does it get retained?

e clip groove toward chassis motorplate metal holds the non eclip side in if remember correctly.Im not home to look at mine.Don

Picked up some goodies...

Very nice haul! I have been eyeing one of those Trinity braces with the wings for awhile. Look forward to seeing it installed.

Thanks! Yeah, Im excited to bolt those pretty blue parts on.

Meanwhile, I realized I had enough spare parts to put together another roller. So, the one I've been working on will be the graphite "CR" clone, and will get all the nice parts. The other will be all Stiffezel (sp?) and will be the beater (sort of). Step 1, dye some yellow parts...

Next, lets bolt it together (plus some red accents, courtesy of SabuaTech!)...