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That Blackfoot is amazing dude

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You should never go full retard. Someone had to say it; might as well be me.

It's fun trying to make the junk perform like the top shelf stuff..... unless...... there is absolutly no hope.

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Why do you need more 4-40 hardware? I see a few extra bits in the background.

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tamiyadan wrote:it made more sense to go imperial

It always makes more sense to go imperial as opposed to metric

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Tamiya Dan, what do you think about the A & L trailing arms, A & L conversions for RC10, ultima and optima, Man A&L sure made some nice FRP chassis, nice trailing arms and other hardware for a proper conversion. They still sell the rear trailing arms and hardware but no FRP chassis. I bought trailing arms from them for my optima mid, I love trailing arms. But I also want it to perform so I am wondering, which is better, trailing arms or A arm suspension, with A arms the tires travel up and done vertically so maintain full traction. I asked Dave, I think from A & L and he said trailing arms performed better on loose dirt tracks than A arms, I kind of figured it out, trailing arms are the same as A arms, the only difference is the pivot axis swings backwards, less than 90 degrees. When it articulates, you have the tires cambering, as they move up, you have -ve camber, it helps the tires to dig in and prevents slides during turns.

I think about the scorp at this time, they did some brilliant work on changing the wheel camber on the fronts by changing angle of the caster locks!

also I think that trailing arms permit easier articulation than A arms because of the pivot point location with respect to the direction of the incoming force.

Let me know what you guys think

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oh I am sorry, yes, I was talking about the active change in angle when the suspension travels and using camber as the description, Well you know what I meant, when the trailing arms move up, they swing up and in a little and produce that negative angle. I guess the a-arms can be made to do that as well by playing around with the top linkages.

But I really love trailing arms, I have a kyosho beetle with trailing arms, a kyosho datsun with trailing arms, land jump, rowdy and pretty soon my optima mid will also have it. May not be good for the race track but will work with just causal runs for sure!

Thanks for the insight TamiyaDan!

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wow these magazines sure have a wealth of information! and potentially very important and to the point explanations, I better read them! You can learn so much. Yes, I LOVE trailing arm setups, just the way they look brings a smile to be, like for e.g. the scorps trailing arms, if you look from the back, the clean look, its like an optical illusion, all you see is the wheel and a driveshaft going from the gear box into the drive axle. Pure joy. I don't like how the front trailing arms of the scorp handle, I think they are set way steep towards the bottom, if it has a bit shallower angle , I know you can set to that by shorting the shocks etc but you risk bringing the ride height down too much.

I also love shocks, If I get a vintage shock, I try to improve them, as much as I can, I would replace the aluminum or brass pistons with teflon ones, smoother operation and no wear to the inner wall of the shock body, also having a plastic sleeve in-between the shaft and shock body eliminates friction and wear to the very important shaft, wear will mean leakage.

currently gotten myself a kalt 4 stroke open rocker, very beautiful engine, planning to put that in my rowdy baja buggy, a tall order but I need to figure out the right clutch and flywheel setup for this 45 size engine, try to get a reverse gearing mechanism in-between and a 4th servo to control the brake.