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Why would you not use a split point? Those actually go to a point, a single edge bit does not. Single edges are for wood, split points are good for everything else, since they don't "walk" like a single edge does.

nothing is going to 'walk' when you use a drill press and with the chassis being clamped down it does not move so nothing moves or walks. Just drills a nice clean hole.

Todd

so what i mean is a standard twist drill with standard geometry. The other styles that are available now including the split points and stepped nose are too aggressive and will tear the composite if you are not familiar with them. Really, there are specialty composite bits, but for small diameter holes, a standard twist drill will be just fine.

the clamping and backing of material and use of a drill press will keep everything aligned as Todd said above and is preferred over free-hand. A mill with a collet would be even truer, but its not necessary.

I've had the same experience with the split point drill bits. They tear up the edges especially fiberous material. I dumped all mine. If you do a small center punch the bit won't walk either.

I've had the best luck with fiber chassis (or any chassis for that matter) by laying a piece of tape over the chassis, tracing the holes with a click type lead pencil, marking the center, measure symmetry, using a pin vice to start a pilot (alloy you use a center punch) put tape on back side of chassis. Place chassis on a block of wood and drill your hole from the top side. It doesn't really matter if you tear the hole out the bottom as the countersinking will clean it up.

Edit, I use the pin vice pilot as it's extremely accurate by hand. I dont clamp my piece down, I hold the piece loosely so it centers itself as soon as the drill touches the material. Don't burn through the material in one shot, several short bursts of light pressure followed by pauses let the chips clear and prevent overheating the drill giving a cleaner cut. Go slow as your about to break through the other side to prevent splitting the carbon.


Here's an example of an alloy chassis I've done using a similar method, everything lines up perfect.

i've mangled enough composite material to determine what I suggested is pretty fool proof. tape on the top can be helpful, but the most important part is to support the bottom side of the work the best you can. for sure you need a center mark, whether it be a center punch or pin vise with small drill bit or whatever your preferred method is. I have a very sharp small center punch, it allows me to really center up on my markings, in fact, I will sometimes use a magnifying glass to view where I start. the tape on the top is really nice for making marks on material without actually marking the material, for instance, light colored fiberglass. apply tape, make your marks, center punch, and then when you remove the tape you don't have any other lines or marks on the material.

Need to find myself a RC10T nose plate now, without breaking the bank. Will the GT nose plate work as well? As long as it's not bent up I could care a less what color.

T1, T2, and GT are all the same on the front end. Everything is identical.

Regarding parts compatibility, could I pick up a GT roller and pretty much swap out most of the parts to my B chassis? Seems to me the Gt's are cheaper to pick up than the RC10T's, generally speaking. A-arms, shocks and the like should all be the same right?

Everything except the rear bulkhead, shock tower, and tranny will swap over. The rear suspension mounts will be different also.

Looks like the RC Carbon works rc10 chassis are all sold out now!