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The NIP 7326 T2 battery brace is on, along with new rear body mounts. The package the battery brace came in says "$5.00" on it.

joey_zrl wrote: ↑Thu Mar 09, 2017 6:30 pm The package the battery brace came in says "$5.00" on it.

Sadly this is common, things like ball cups that were $2 are pulling $30+

Looking good, I suspect it may be an early T2. Also the ball ends on the back of tower shouldn't be there.

I was looking for a new project and came across this for you.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Team-Associated-RC10T2-Gear-Dust-Cover-7372-RC10-T2-/262836440631?nav=SEARCH

RC10th wrote: ↑Fri Mar 17, 2017 5:40 am

joey_zrl wrote: ↑Thu Mar 09, 2017 6:30 pm The package the battery brace came in says "$5.00" on it.

Sadly this is common, things like ball cups that were $2 are pulling $30+

Looking good, I suspect it may be an early T2. Also the ball ends on the back of tower shouldn't be there.

I'm beginning to see that. It's expensive restoring vintage, but totally worth it in the end once you have a complete original vehicle. I'm lucky to have a mostly complete roller as a starting point.

I do believe it is an early T2. The turnbuckles were rusted pretty bad, so I replaced them with a set from a T3 I used to have. They look exactly the same. I think I still have the T3 in my room at my parents house in TN. The shocks, turnbuckles, ball-ends and ball cups were in a zip-lok in my Duratrax field bag that I brought with me to FL when I moved to be with my wife. Weird huh?

I was wondering about those ball-ends on the rear shock tower, as I didn't see those in the manual. Someone probably used those for a sway bar I'm guessing? I will be removing those. Thanks for the link to the gear cover. I have it saved in my collection. Much appreciated.

So... I found this gear cover... Thanks for leading me in the right direction RC10th!

I guess I need to rename this thread to RC10T2 "slow-build" resto. I've been super busy lately, so I haven't had a lot of time to move forward with this project. I did however receive a T2 decal sheet from shoman24v. They look super awesome! Thanks again Walid!

Nice find. Looks like it's coming along nicely.

blk05wrx wrote: ↑Wed May 10, 2017 2:19 pm Nice find. Looks like it's coming along nicely.

Thanks blk05wrx. I will be starting back on this project very shortly, starting with the body. I would like to have a body painted and autographed by Andy Jacobson. Then onto the wheels and tires.

Well, I thought I would be doing the body next, but I ran across a sweet deal on a new Novak 610RV esc:

I picked up a motor for the build this weekend. It's a Trinity Speed Gems 19x1 Pro-Spec with locked 24 degree timing. This is a limited run of Trinity's Speed Gem series of motors. These are not in the Trinity catalog. There were only less than 100 made, which makes it one of the rarest of the Gems. The only other Gem series motor that they made a limited run of 100 of was the Garnet 13x2 in a reddish/pink can.

These will be hard to find in ten years, and will be a nice shelf piece in a retired T2.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Trinity-SPEED-GEMS-PRO-SPEC-19t-Lock-Timing-4499e-Brush-w-Red-Springs-NEW/201795880939?_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D69a29212323d4194bd492717a3f24568%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D201795880939&_trkparms=pageci%253A0262a799-4851-11e7-b0de-74dbd1804782%257Cparentrq%253A6dbed80715c0aa485a3efcd9fff41c75%257Ciid%253A1

I had a little time to put some of the pieces together for this build. As luck would have it, the esc is rather too large to fit on the chassis. The power wires exit from the side of the case, so it throws everything off. I should have went with a Duster or similar esc.

I compromised and used Scotch 3M dual lock to secure the esc to the battery brace. Surprisingly, this is some really sticky stuff! The esc is mounted, and it ain't going anywhere! I tried to pull on it with a firm tug, and it's stuck on there good. I'm just relieved to find a spot for it on this truck.

The battery and motor connectors look to be the female side of a bullet connector. I most probably will be using another type of connector on the battery side, but would like to keep the bullets on the motor side. Since I will be using Ni-Cd or possibly a low mAH Ni-MH pack for power, would APP connectors be an era-correct part to use for the battery connections? Any recommendations?

Onto the motor...Trinity Speed Gems 19x1 Pro Spec. Limited run of under 100 made. I know it's not era correct, but it's a brushed motor and it's from Trinity. I wasn't sure on what to gear it, but I have it at 17/87 as of now. I think that's a good starting point. I'll have to run it and monitor the temps to get a feel of it. In the meantime, I'll be searching for a Reedy Sonic 2 or Ultra Sonic to go in it.

The next part is an original gear cover. I cut it out roughly with scissors, leaving about 2mm around the edges. Then went around it with an xacto blade to make it as close to perfect as I could. Btw, who knew a tiny piece of lexan would cost so much? I downloaded the pic of the gear cover using "FX" on my phone. The style was called "Vintage". It made the pic look old, like it was from 1995.

I also mounted a Futaba 304SB T-FHSS Rx on the chassis. I will have to read the manual from my 4PLs radio to see how to set it up with an older esc. I'm crossing my fingers that it works with the Novak!!!

That's all for now, until I decide on which direction I want to go with the body.

So I went a little off course and decided (for now) to get some wheels and tires to have fun with. They're called Team Orion Fresh Kicks Militia 2.2 truck tires on Revolver rims. Got all 4 mounted and glued from Stormer Hobbies (ebay store) for about $20 plus shipping. I like that they are different than what you usually see on a T2. I have a few parts coming in the mail that should finish up the chassis side of things. All I need now is a body and a battery. Not sure whether to get nimh or lipo?

definitely lipo

klavy69 wrote: ↑Thu Jun 22, 2017 6:56 pm definitely lipo

That's what I was leaning towards. There's too many positives not to. More constant voltage without the voltage drop of nimh... linear power delivery to cutoff voltage, and longer run time. What was I thinking?

Parts that came in today:

#6265 plastic drag link
#7531 Associated servo saver plastic RC10GT
#6272 ball end dust covers
#6931 screws 8-32 x 1/4 FH
#7329 T2 battery foam pads for bulkhead and chassis

To be delivered:

#7328 T2 6cell battery stop (I hope his works with a Reedy Wolfpack 3300mAH lipo)

It was a pleasure to come home after work to see my parts had came in. It was also pretty relaxing to sit down and install them.