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Finally could try the following on:

- Rear AE 7803's - they fit with a bit of work, the LXT's pin are a bit longer (and somewhat narrower too, but this is not an issue it seems) , so they need to be ground down a bit.
- Front AE 7842's - they fit but the axle is bigger on the LXT, so a different bearing is needed, and the bigger nut (don't know the size, sorry) somewhat rubs on the wheel.

I think I'm using some proline velocity front truck wheels #2635 atm - which are a great fit, hence why they are disc'ed

Update - 7803 don't fit. The 10/32 nut does not fit in the recess in the wheel's cone... so it pushes on the cone section and the thing wobbles

I'd try drilling out a pair of AE nylon 8-32 nuts to fit the losi axles. See how they hold up.

That, or try to taper the Losi nuts so they don't rub the wheels but still tighten.

scr8p wrote: ↑Mon Apr 23, 2018 8:58 am I'd try drilling out a pair of AE nylon 8-32 nuts to fit the losi axles. See how they hold up.

That, or try to taper the Losi nuts so they don't rub the wheels but still tighten.

Thanks Jason, good idea. Will try the first one. I can see the following equivalences

10-32
drill bit No. 21
4.04mm... I have a 4.03mm bit and I will try that.

Out of despair I've also tried to hack some original 10-32 losi flanged nylon nuts so they fit in the cone but it still doesn't work right and there's still significant wobble. Not sure this is what you are referring to with the second one...

The thing is, the fit isn't that great to start with, so it depends on how well the rim sits on the spacer between the outer bearing and the pin (which I've replaced with new ones, too).

Will report...

thanks,
Paul

I've never liked that losi spacer, always thought it was too small.

Do you have any b4 wheel spacers you could use instead? It would give the wheel a lot more surface area to tighten against and should help reduce some of the wobble. Then shim as needed between the hub and spacer.

how much axle do you have exposed? can you put some washers on the axle after the wheel so the nut tightens up on the washers, rather than the cone of the wheel? This seems like an easy enough problem to figure out. or just use a small pattern 10-32 nut.

Earlier I did a quick google search for small pattern lock nuts / nylon nuts but didn't see any.

also, the front wheel comments don't make sense either. the losi and associated trucks both use a 3/16" axle shaft. should fit with small patter nuts or a washer/spacer on the outside to prevent contact with the nut.

this is one example.
http://www.tacomascrew.com/Products/Nylon-Insert-Lock-Nuts/094-101_8
EDIT******This one may not be. small pattern stuff apparently is hard to find.

I realize you are in Europe, but the other option is to run a #10-32 tap through the #8 nut, since the threads are the same pitch, you can upsize the nut pretty easily. I kind of think the #6,#8,#10,#12-32 family was done for that reason, you could fix a stripped thread and upsize the screw by just re-threading.

Our wheels needed these self locking aircraft style nuts when used with losi. They are kind of hard on the aluminum front axle

Pic shows them along with a 4-40 standard locknut for comparison

I've already tinkered a couple of hours with these bloody axles/wheels/nuts combos the past couple of evenings... will try again tonight and see what happens

@@scr8p I love the B4 spacer idea... and I think I have some equivalents, I will try that indeed. thank you.

@jwscab I will try to space the nut away from the cone, although I'm thinking it just adds potential slop in the system if there's already some around the axle inside the wheel, notwithstanding losing the darn shims when you unscrew the nut, but hey, I will do what it takes because I don't want no stinking yellow XXT rims on that truck any more... I think the AE shims should fit, let's see.

Shelf engineering the simplest of things always end up way more complex that initially thought, eh?

Thanks all,
Paul

This sort of thing is pretty much standard for me. Everything related to working on cars especially hot rod hardware, is always labeled 'bolt on'. It's a running joke with us. After all the sweat and hassles, we sit back and say, man that was easy, it just bolt on.

jwscab wrote: ↑Mon Apr 23, 2018 11:50 am This sort of thing is pretty much standard for me. Everything related to working on cars especially hot rod hardware, is always labeled 'bolt on'. It's a running joke with us. After all the sweat and hassles, we sit back and say, man that was easy, it just bolt on.

Anyways - fiddled with the rear end some more yesterday:

- whacked the stock, small losi washer
- shimmed (3x AE 7368) with washers for 3/16 axles outside the hub
- installed B4-like conical washers (AE 9608) - with the shims, it is close to flush with the pin... because the recess for the pin in the rim doesn't go far in, really.
- bored out some RPM 8/32 nylon nuts (RPM 70842) to 4.03mm to make them 10-32 thread friendly - then cut the flanged bits out so it can sit inside the cone.

And it seems to work. To be honest, there is a still some wobble... but it is way better than before and about acceptable, at least for a vintage runner that won't pretend beating the track record anyway.

Interestingly, I had a close look at those original Losi 10-32 nylon nuts that were on the car... and the holes are definitely not centered, they're at least half a millimeter off Maybe they aren't so original after all

Waiting for my tires to show up now and I'm done.

Thanks for the help, folks.

jwscab wrote: ↑Mon Apr 23, 2018 10:25 am also, the front wheel comments don't make sense either. the losi and associated trucks both use a 3/16" axle shaft. should fit with small patter nuts or a washer/spacer on the outside to prevent contact with the nut.

The front wheel axle on the 10T uses a 4-40 thread i think - much smaller than the monstrous Losi 10-32 used both F&R (and way overkill )

yeah, but your description was that the axle was bigger so you needed a different bearing......but it's really the threaded portion that is different, and the same tweaks you need on the rear would work on the front. Agree that the 10-32 isn't really necessary but the reason is pretty cost effective, the 3/16" shaft is only a couple thousandths under the major diameter for 10-32, so they didn't need to do any extra machining, just thread the 3/16" section. make sense from a manufacturing point of view.