RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

you are definitely looking at an aerodynamic problem. bottom pan very likely necessary, sealed in the front, possibly front wing, air dams. weight will be helpful too.....

Thanks, the belts are a concern if running a 1/8 motor on 6s. They are strong for what they are but might not hold 3000 watts.

Aero will be a big part of this hence the big underpan which will get trimmed to the body. It is basically just for proof of concept and will become a drill jig for a proper chassis later. The side of the body will get bolted to the pan with some angle mounts. I thought about running tape around the edges to help seal it to the chassis. The back lip of the body will also get trimmed off, some side dams will be installed and I was planning to try and make some sort of rear diffuser.

The diffuser will be the most important thing for aero in my opinion

Don't forget to harden the suspension so it doesn't bottom out due to the flat pan being sucked down.

As for belted tires blowing and belts failing, that's pretty normal with high speed cars...

Ahh yes, that was part of my plan but you beat me to it.

I knew the standard shocks and tower wouldn't fit under this style body so I had a few alternative designs in mind. The car doesn’t really need suspension, just a little flex in my opinion. If I can keep it ridgid enough but get 5mm of flex diagonally across the car to ride the irregularities of the pavement I'd be happy.

The three main designs I have in mind are;

1. Ridgid upper arms with a compressed o-ring between the C-hub to absorb any jolts. Running the o-ring tighter or looser to dial it in.

2. Solid upper arms made out of carbon or G10 of various thicknesses to dial in flex. It has to be solid enough not to "spring"

3. Use a spring steel rod where you can slide a collar along to increase or decrease the leverage.