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What a cool use of your skills and 3d printer. I envision doing something like this, but I would loose my motivation to learn the printer as soon as I open it. Excellent ideas, design and execution!

Headling wrote: ↑Tue Aug 15, 2017 7:15 am Great idea on the anti squat spacers, I found the same problem on my yz2 lay down RC10, be interested to see what your findings are

I just went to look up your project - it turned out great!

That vid of the car running looked awesome. Did you find that you didn't have enough squat?

NomadRacer wrote: ↑Tue Aug 15, 2017 8:22 am RC10 Worlds re-release parts are drying up on ebay. I look nearly every day.

scr8p wrote: ↑Tue Aug 15, 2017 8:34 am Yeah.... I thought the parts availability would have lasted a bit longer than it has.

Oh well, back the old days of pre 2014.

Oh no... here I was thinking that AE had a very good record of keeping parts for their cars alive for a long long time. I guess it isn't the same for the re-releases.

So far these cars have been pretty durable though. I guess C-hubs and spindles *could* be 3D printed...

Still... it would be nice if the parts support lasted a tad longer. This and the CAT XLS are 2 of the best re-release runners IMO...

matt1ptkn wrote: ↑Tue Aug 15, 2017 9:42 am What a cool use of your skills and 3d printer. I envision doing something like this, but I would loose my motivation to learn the printer as soon as I open it. Excellent ideas, design and execution!

Thanks for the kind comments.

I've wanted a 3D printer for the longest time but was always hesitant due to the prices and the learning curve. Made the jump when I recently read that DIY printers in the market were now a lot more affordable and capable of printing reasonably well with some tinkering. Turns out the printing part is not that hard to pick up. Software is so much more accessible than CNC. The design portion is more involved but even then there is some pretty awesome starter software that can do a lot of stuff.

I know it's pretty silly but I was really stoked when I finally held the printed gear cover in my hand. This opens up so many possibilities for the hobbyist!

I've had mine for a two and a half years now... it really does open up the possibilities. With shapeways you *could* just have them print your parts, but when I was developing the Ten4 I found it just took longer than I was willing to wait to design something, then wait 2-3 weeks to get it, then make changes, wait again... You gotta love almost-instant gratification! The only thing that slows me down is how much time I have to dedicate to the hobby

mk-Zero wrote: ↑Tue Aug 15, 2017 10:55 am I've had mine for a two and a half years now... it really does open up the possibilities. With shapeways you *could* just have them print your parts, but when I was developing the Ten4 I found it just took longer than I was willing to wait to design something, then wait 2-3 weeks to get it, then make changes, wait again... You gotta love almost-instant gratification! The only thing that slows me down is how much time I have to dedicate to the hobby

Can't disagree. It's pretty awesome to think of an idea during lunch or at the traffic stop and then go home and try it.

Sorry to digress but what printer are you using?

I might try Shapeways for some parts just because certain parts I just can't get that smooth finish on the underside when supports are needed. lol

Cheers, thanks to photobucket my pics are no longer but if you want to pm me or look me up on FB (Mark Headling) I can send some pics over, yes it could certainly to with less squat, with the short arms and fairly high anti squat degree it does tend to lift its nose so to get round this I added a fair bit of weight on the nose but it'll be an interesting option to try

It's funny you guys bring this up... I was going to dial some anti-squat out of my 10M for the same reasons. At least try it. With that car it has a lot of front bite, but I still want to see what more would do. I've been questioning everything on that car since the suspension geometry is set up for a car with the motor hanging out the back. Reminds me of my bug

My printer is a FlashForge Creator Pro. I've been very happy with it.

you guys got it so easy... I sourced/built my Prusa i2 from parts... did it all from scratch. Cutting threaded rods, machining hobbed bolts, all the wiring and then testing and then tuning... I should go back and try to finish my 2nd one... it's "vintage" at this point. lol.

Amazing what you can get out of a 300-500 dollar kit... for RCs and 3D printers...

Headling wrote: ↑Tue Aug 15, 2017 12:08 pm Cheers, thanks to photobucket my pics are no longer but if you want to pm me or look me up on FB (Mark Headling) I can send some pics over, yes it could certainly to with less squat, with the short arms and fairly high anti squat degree it does tend to lift its nose so to get round this I added a fair bit of weight on the nose but it'll be an interesting option to try

lol... it took a while but I individually visited each of your photos in the photobucket links and saw the very cool car you built. Anti-squat has been one of the settings I've played with on my racing buggies so I am rather optimistic that it will aid in the handling in this case... fingers crossed!

mk-Zero wrote: ↑Tue Aug 15, 2017 12:27 pm It's funny you guys bring this up... I was going to dial some anti-squat out of my 10M for the same reasons. At least try it. With that car it has a lot of front bite, but I still want to see what more would do. I've been questioning everything on that car since the suspension geometry is set up for a car with the motor hanging out the back. Reminds me of my bug

My printer is a FlashForge Creator Pro. I've been very happy with it.

lol... reading through many of the mid-motor threads was really helpful. The 4-gear transmissions like you've used put down a lot of grip on power. How does it react when braking? On my little test run I felt the car transferred too much weight up front too quickly even with the 3-gear setup. Intend to try some harder springs up front if I can find some that fit... the ones I found in my toolbox are all a tad too long.

lmw94002 wrote: ↑Tue Aug 15, 2017 12:43 pm you guys got it so easy... I sourced/built my Prusa i2 from parts... did it all from scratch. Cutting threaded rods, machining hobbed bolts, all the wiring and then testing and then tuning... I should go back and try to finish my 2nd one... it's "vintage" at this point. lol.

Amazing what you can get out of a 300-500 dollar kit... for RCs and 3D printers...

Wow that sounds like a lot of work. I must admit I was pleasantly surprised with what a $200 printer could do... but it was somewhat of a challenge putting it together... it had some missing holes and some stuff to figure out - but that was to be expected given the price point. Was a fun little project and once it started printing it was well worth the time!

The car gets a little light in back when braking. With 3-deg of toe on each side though it's manageable, very stable in fact. With only 1.5 per side it would get super squirrelly in back on braking. More tuning to go for sure though.

I ran blue front and silver rear springs on my yokoRC10, had to go heavy on the oils but I was running on indoor Astro

Think oils were 45/35

Headling wrote: ↑Tue Aug 15, 2017 3:00 pm I ran blue front and silver rear springs on my yokoRC10, had to go heavy on the oils but I was running on indoor Astro

Think oils were 45/35

that's really helpful!
You were running big bore shocks?
I'm running the standard stock shocks and the blue front springs I want to use are too long and I can't get the proper ride height... It's annoying as it's from the AE spring set. Lol. So I'm stuck with the silver in front for now till I find something else.

Just a few more pics. The chassis had to be cut to accommodate the motor and gear covers. To do this neatly I actually drew up a simple template and printed it out so I could mark out the curves to be cut on both sides of the chassis. After this it was relatively simple to use a dremel to drill out some holes, break off the unwanted portion and then dremel again to sand it smooth. Motor is easily accessible.




As most conversions go, the chassis will require more holes to attach the flipped transmission to. Initially I was going to just drill 4 new holes for the gearbox and 2 more for the bulkhead, but after I mocked it up I realized that a number of the holes would be really close to each other... this meant would not only be aesthetically unpleasing but also weaken the chassis quite a bit. Another downside to this would also be that by retaining the stock suspension mount positions, the wheelbase of the car would be shortened as the suspension arms would need to be flipped for the conversion...

So after taking some measurements, I was happy to find that I could actually shift the suspension mounting holes back by 15mm. With the flipped arms, this would take my wheelbase to about 280mm which is up to spec with current cars for a more stable drive. Doing so would also reduce the amount of rear overhang of the chassis as well as further center the weight on the chassis of the car. The other upside - there would be a lot less overlap of the new holes on the original ones for a slightly cleaner look and stronger chassis.