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sandkil wrote: ↑Sun Feb 11, 2018 5:55 am

Asso_man! wrote: ↑Sat Feb 10, 2018 11:51 am Good start! No front kick?

Thanks!
...the kick up will be the 3 degree on the arm mounts.

You can get a bit more kick-up using the caster shims from an RC10L front suspension. Have to add a hole to the shim but they fit neatly under a rear arm mount.

Phin wrote: ↑Tue Feb 20, 2018 8:42 pm

sandkil wrote: ↑Sun Feb 11, 2018 5:55 am

Asso_man! wrote: ↑Sat Feb 10, 2018 11:51 am Good start! No front kick?

Thanks!
...the kick up will be the 3 degree on the arm mounts.

You can get a bit more kick-up using the caster shims from an RC10L front suspension. Have to add a hole to the shim but they fit neatly under a rear arm mount.

Thanks Phin, thats a great idea. That makes possebilities to tune the handeling of the car once done.
I will see if it's possible to give the aluminum chassis a bend and still use the mounting holes for the bulkhead.
I think it all can be fixed in place with a Kydex motor guard that goes all the way from chassis to bulkhead. Much like the A&L Factory Works type along with a upper fibreglass deck on the chassis with aluminum standoffs.

I sent AE a photo of the chassis. I do not know if I have the patience to wait for an answer but hey I can allways get my head around what colors and scheme to run on the Comosite Craft -10Lss The hardest part of a build!

Awesome project

sandkil wrote: ↑Tue Feb 20, 2018 1:53 pmNice one AE!

whoa!

(who will be the first one saying "back in the days this was done in the US blah blah blah Chinese Crap blah blah blah Instead Buy American blah blah blah )

Actually weren’t we told these were formed in the USA? I’m pretty sure that was a “selling point”

GoMachV wrote: ↑Wed Feb 21, 2018 4:38 am Actually weren’t we told these were formed in the USA? I’m pretty sure that was a “selling point”

this is where I was stealthly getting to

So I contacted AE and a new chassis is on the way.
In the mean time I've gathered some parts for the front end.
Shapeways 0-degree RC10 Rear Arm Mounts (Conklin Performance Designs) modified to fit a-arms (hoping they will hold up with regards to the material removed)
Managed to get my hands on a pair of Yoko. 870C front a-arms (I was going to manufactur my own out of aluminum, but these fell into my hands)
Kyosho rere Optima steering knuckles and caster blocks. Have ball joints and bearings in transit.
Allso modified the motor plate and gear cover.
My plan is to manufactur a Kydex A&L type motor brace/guard that conects the rear of the chassis with gearbox and bulkhead.

Eventually got to it and started to cut and bend the chassis. Never did get a replacement from AE.
There will be a fiberglass top deck to maintain the ten degree kick up along with the additional three degrees on the arm mounts.
As I mentioned before I will have a motor/transmission brace made similar to the A&L Factory Works.
Will have to figure out how to proceed with the steering linkage. Enough room for steering linkage like buggy or pan car style which means bump steer

Oh My, this is an incredible project! Clean, sharp and precise. Please continue sir!

NomadRacer wrote: ↑Fri Aug 31, 2018 6:46 am Oh My, this is an incredible project! Clean, sharp and precise. Please continue sir!

Thank you sir

Fabricated a Kydex transmission brace slash motor guard.
Used Great planes 4-40 blind nuts to secure it to the chassis.

Should I go for aluminum (piece of the chassis) shock mount on top of the transmission or fabricate a Delrin mount for it?

Extremely cool stuff here and beautifully executed as always (even with a bad eye ). I've always wanted to make a similar project but never had enough time so far. One day...

I'd go for the aluminium mount, it looks like the real deal and I love the idea of not losing any bit of the aviation grade alumin(i)um!
On the original proto, the shock tower is attached to the bulkhead though. Maybe you have less caster?

Asso_man! wrote: ↑Fri Sep 07, 2018 4:14 am Extremely cool stuff here and beautifully executed as always (even with a bad eye ). I've always wanted to make a similar project but never had enough time so far. One day...

I'd go for the aluminium mount, it looks like the real deal and I love the idea of not losing any bit of the aviation grade alumin(i)um!
On the original proto, the shock tower is attached to the bulkhead though. Maybe you have less caster?

Thanks David,
yeah that damn eye, It's constantly changing so the optician can do anything at the moment. just regular checks every month to se were it's "heading".
I'm a bit torn regading the shock tower mount. Im looking at both the prototype and the Kanda Special/Ryuz FF. Hard to tell if my caster is different. I'm using Kyosho Optima caster blocks and the proto used Yokomo.
I dont know what kick up that one had either, but im going for ten degree kick up on the chassis and additional three degr on the arm mounts and if im not mistaken three degree caster on the Optima blocks.
The bulkhead location is more sturdy than the transmission case so we'll see.

Nope, that didn't work!
The aluminum was a tad too thin (4mm) for hinge pins. Will have to go with plan B. I hope Dubro DB3365 heavy duty ball link will work (like the Kanda FF/Ryuz but different) for the trailing arms.

Would, say, a 2mm hinge pin from a AE RC12R5.2 work?