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What you have on there is an upgrade. The bodies are hard anodized and Teflon coated

jwscab wrote: ↑Fri Feb 16, 2018 10:45 am What you have on there is an upgrade. The bodies are hard anodized and Teflon coated

Ok, good to know. Thanks.

jwscab wrote: ↑Thu Feb 15, 2018 9:20 pm The shocks are hard anodized associated team shocks. You should be able to getting all of your replacement parts from Associated directly, start with the 'classic' manual for trans rebuilding. Steering bellcranks are rps/losi

Looking close at the pictures it appears your right bellcrank needs to be flipped. The flat-most side should point towards the inside.

Old Charger, it should work with new NiMh batteries? Just takes longer? Some other memories i found in the box:

duckhead wrote: ↑Fri Feb 16, 2018 11:49 am

jwscab wrote: ↑Thu Feb 15, 2018 9:20 pm The shocks are hard anodized associated team shocks. You should be able to getting all of your replacement parts from Associated directly, start with the 'classic' manual for trans rebuilding. Steering bellcranks are rps/losi

Looking close at the pictures it appears your right bellcrank needs to be flipped. The flat-most side should point towards the inside.

Thanks. I will look into that.


Better wheel pictures. They look to be dyed Proline front and Race Master rear?

I ordered some goodies for get it going, modernize it, yet keep the retro look: (Any suggestions welcome)

-JC Racing 2.2 wheels for classic RC10
-Fast Eddy Bearing kit
-RPM gear cover
-Pro-line 2.2 Dirt Hawg rear tires
-Savox SC-0254mg steering servo for the larger wheel/tire combo
-Lunsford "Retro" Associated RC10 Titanium Turnbuckle Kit (7)
-RPM Heavy Duty 4-40 Rod Ends (Black) (12)
-Team Associated Factory Team Bleeder Shock Cap 1/10 (4)

Deciding on:
-good all around yard/road/dirt bashing front tires, maybe these pro-line prism front 4wd? -Teat Associated Worlds front/rear shock towers in black, is that worth the upgrade over stock?
-LiPo and Brushless? I want longer run time than usual 5 min. Prices are very tempting, Turnigy Trackstar ESC/Brushless 17.5t or 13.5t motor combo ~$70 ebay

If your going to buy electronics (motor/ESC,etc.) from eBay, make sure they are reputable and except returns for defective stuff!

Yes, I will be careful, thanks.

I ordered the rod end cups, not the stock open top style. So I need to get the regular ball studs to work with the RPM cups? Which ones should I get?

So i bought some unused Worlds car ball studs from ebay, those should work, right? At least for the front? How about the rear, anyone know the sizes from bulkhead tab to knuckle (4)?

Some parts arrived today. Not sure how I feel about the black RPM ball cups. I want to try and keep a 'vintage aftermarket' look to this buggy, they look too modern. Maybe I will keep them.

More stuff.

The rpm ballcups have been that design for a long time, so they are 'vintage'

Merc1973 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 16, 2018 11:56 am Better wheel pictures. They look to be dyed Proline front and Race Master rear?

Proline at the rears; one CRP and one stock Jellybean in the front.

Phin wrote: ↑Fri Feb 23, 2018 11:45 am

Merc1973 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 16, 2018 11:56 am Better wheel pictures. They look to be dyed Proline front and Race Master rear?

Proline at the rears; one CRP and one stock Jellybean in the front.

ThankS! I stole the stock one from my older Brother's old A-stamp that needs a lot of TLC, sat in my parents wet basement. It was a quick car, think it has a 10T Trinity motor and Novak M5. The old rust shocks have the old plastic sheet material for seals, they always leaked.

If your brother isn't looking to take that gold tub car back, I'd suggest you use that for all the new bits and put the foam core chassis on a shelf. The aluminum tub is going to be sturdier than 30 year old foam.

Swap the gold shocks for the gray team shocks.

Phin wrote: ↑Fri Feb 23, 2018 1:57 pm If your brother isn't looking to take that gold tub car back, I'd suggest you use that for all the new bits and put the foam core chassis on a shelf. The aluminum tub is going to be sturdier than 30 year old foam.

Swap the gold shocks for the gray team shocks.

Hmmmmm.... I told him I would clean it up a little, replace rusty parts and ship it out to him. Is a 30 year old foam chassis really that bad? Better off buying a cheap gold tub from fleaBay? A stealth trans would be nice if I found a cheap parts gold/black tub, i never find those deals. Dang it, why are you making me spend more money?