RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I was finally able to remove the tank and the engine with all of its hardware. I think I have been leaving this part for last because I am a little nervous of the rebuild process as this is my first time working on a nitro engine. The chassis was once again another victim to neglect. After brushing it clean and giving it a quick coat of metal cleaner, the chassis actually cleaned up better than I thought. I also checked the tank and gave that a good cleaning as well. Seems like it is also in great shape and there doesn't seem to be any clogs or debris to prevent it from performing as it should.

After the chassis was cleaned, I began the reassembly process. First the front end. Then the rear end and transmission. I plan to work on the nitro engine this week. I'm hopeful I can take everything apart and give it a thorough cleaning and put everything back together. Once I see how everything is looking at that point, I will be ordering a couple of pieces I still need.

*Front body posts (the ones on there now are not correct for this truck
*Clutch shoes (If anyone knows where I can get the MIP 4n1 clutch for this truck, please let me know. I keep reading that is a must upgrade)
*New 66T spur gear (The metal one on it now looks warped. I'll go with a RR spur)
*16t or 17t clutch?? (Any recommendations on this set up)
*New fuel tubing and exhaust coupler... I think that's what it's called

Question for you guys, what glow plugs can I buy for this engine once it is rebuilt? Also, any budget friendly lipo packs you guys can recommend to put in this thing? I need the one to power the truck and I am also going to need to get one to power the starter box that came with the purchase of this truck. I think that one requires a 4s?

Thanks in advance.

Hot plugs tune easier and idle better, colder plugs can make a little more power but might not idle as good.

OS #3 or #8 are the most popular.

Edit: That engine likely has a turbo style plug so you have to make sure you get the right style of plug. If has a copper washer and is threaded to the bottom of the plug it is a standard plug, if it has a smooth taper on the bottom and looks like an acorn it is a turbo style plug.

Thanks for the info, 10th! I will be checking the plug tonight to make sure I have either the standard or turbo plug. I'll keep you posted.

I was actually able to take the engine completely apart last night and was really surprised to find all of the internals in excellent shape. There was no scaring on the metals and I couldn't find any discoloration as if the parts were somewhat new. I do have to go through the bearings. The front bearing was almost completely seized up and required that I spray it down and lube it up just to get the crankshaft to move freely and removed. I don't have the bearing removal tools (expensive ), but I did read up the trick that people use by warming up the block in the oven and popping out the bearings. I will be giving that a try!

I began the engine rebuild process while adding after run oil to all of the pieces along the way. Everything went back together great and the engine was turning over nice and smooth I proceeded to take the carb apart and clean everything as well. I'll have to seek help when it comes to firing this thing up and tuning it as I've never been down this road before

After taking inventory, I put together my parts list and placed an order on Amain for the remaining items. I should have everything by next week to button up this rebuild and try to fire it off in who knows how many years. I'll work on the starter box this week and see what wheel/ tire combos I have laying around. I also have to get the Crowd Pleazer body painted up. I'm usually a one color paint scheme kind of guy, so I will see what I come up with for this one.

RC10th, after pulling the plug, you were right. This does use the turbo plug. I ordered a couple of OS hot plugs. Seems like their labeling has changed over the years. The one I pulled off was labeled OS P8. I order hotter plugs based on their new chart.

Did you get the bearings out?

Looking good so far. Can't wait to see it finished and running.

I put the block in the oven and I was able to remove the bearings. The rear bearing fell out by tapping it on a wooden block and I used a wooden spoon to pop out the front. After cleaning out the bearings and oiling them again with RC Tears, I put them in the freezer for a few hours before I was able to put them back in the block. I was happy on how they cleaned up, so I feel confident that they will perform well.

the only issue with old bearings is that they will leak spent fuel through them if they have any wear whatsoever. Won't matter much if its a shelfer though...or if you run them as often as I do my nitros anymore

Todd

Hi klavy,
Mainly going to use this to run up and down the street. Never owned a nitro before and there definitely aren't and 10th scale nitro trucks running at any track nearby. I've always wanted one of these, but was never able to afford one as a kid. I'll probably run this every so often just for fun

Then it won't be any hassle for you to do a slight cleanup if they do leak by.

Good to see a nitro gt still getting some attention around here so keep up the updates please

Todd

Question for you guys.... Will I have any issues running a 2s lipo receiver pack powering two Hitec 645mg servos on this project? Do I need a voltage regulator or can I run it without one? I don't plan to be running the truck for so long that I will drop below the lipo safe zone, but I am more concerned with 6v servos blowing out with a 7.4v lipo.

Thanks

Unless your servos and receiver can cope with lipo you will need a regulator, which is too much hassle in my opinion if they cant run on 7.4. Much easier to just use a 5 cell receiver pack.

Finally got to work on the truck again this past weekend after receiving the miscellaneous parts I was missing. I began re-assembly of the remaining items while updating a few parts that I was previously concerned with. Installed the servos (I have to flip the steering servo around , and plumbed the new tubing. I'm getting excited that I will finally be able to fire this off after who knows how long it was sitting for

I've never tuned a nitro motor. I had disassembled and cleaned the carb before reassembly. Does anybody have a tuning guide on how I should tune the carb for it's first fire and how to progress through the break-in process?

I also turned my attention to the starter box that was provided when I purchased this project. I first had to flip the motor mounting position to the correct location and then I set up the configuration for this truck while the engine was still out. All of the contact points were cleaned and re-assembled and the motor wires were freshened up to accept a 4s lipo that will be powering the box.