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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build

Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2018 10:25 am
by NomadRacer
Ordered more tubing from GRAINGER :P

Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build

Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2018 11:05 pm
by jeepnut24
Its looking pretty awesome. Are you going to braze or tig the joints?

Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build

Posted: Wed Aug 15, 2018 6:18 am
by NomadRacer
jeepnut24 wrote: Tue Aug 14, 2018 11:05 pm Its looking pretty awesome. Are you going to braze or tig the joints?
The joints are going to be Tig welded. I have a few things still to do before getting into that. :D

Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build

Posted: Wed Aug 15, 2018 3:09 pm
by NomadRacer
I got the battery (shorty lipo) holdown sorted out today. All I'm lacking is to mark and drill the 4 holes in the chassis plate to mount it. I used an Exotek brand #1827 system from AMain with a couple of mods and some 10mm tall hex stand offs. It looks pretty slick. You will be able to adjust it forward and back.
C2TuberBattHoldown.jpg

Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build

Posted: Fri Aug 17, 2018 7:23 am
by NomadRacer
Battery holdown system installed on chassis plate. I was very precise with the drilling and everything worked out perfect, no movement of the battery at all and smooth movement forward/back.
C2Tuberbattholdown2.jpg
Do I need nerf bars? YES! 8)

Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build

Posted: Fri Aug 17, 2018 3:24 pm
by XLR8
NomadRacer wrote: Tue Aug 14, 2018 10:10 am Bending my life away :mrgreen:

I've come up with an idea for the rear, transmission guard tubes but not sure if it's going to stay, may re-do it, if so, need more tubing. :?

C2Tuberrrcage.jpg



C2Tuberrrcage2.jpg
Hey Nomad.... Been giving this some thought. How about something like this?
RC10 rear tube suggestion 1.jpg
Attached with button head screws from the inside
RC10 rear tube suggestion 2.jpg
Those close bends at the back might be a real challenge.
Anyway, it's just a thought. :D

Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build

Posted: Fri Aug 17, 2018 4:28 pm
by NomadRacer
That's a good idea. I'll see if I can make those bends. It would look a lot better than what I have done!

Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build

Posted: Fri Aug 17, 2018 7:21 pm
by XLR8
I have them spaced 1" apart but they could go wider if necessary.
I'm a bit uncertain on those two short cross-members. By chance, do you have some smaller tubing - maybe 1/8" perhaps? They seemed to be a little too thick - or maybe they should be moved or just eliminated completely. I dunno. Anyway, whatever you do, it will look awesome.

Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build

Posted: Fri Aug 17, 2018 7:29 pm
by XLR8
Here's what they would look like at 1/8"

Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build

Posted: Fri Aug 17, 2018 8:46 pm
by NomadRacer
I do have 1/8". It seems to me, kinda strange looking with smaller cross members. Maybe it's me though, being on the mobile, away from home for the weekend.

I think 1" is close to the measurement between the two tubes, maybe plus 1/4" or so.

Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build

Posted: Fri Aug 17, 2018 9:17 pm
by XLR8
I think you're right, 1/8" is too small.

Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build

Posted: Fri Aug 17, 2018 11:44 pm
by jeepnut24
Bend up both sides individually tig them together. If you want more strength, then sleeve the inside of the joint.

Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build

Posted: Sat Aug 18, 2018 10:53 am
by XLR8
jeepnut24 wrote: Fri Aug 17, 2018 11:44 pm Bend up both sides individually tig them together. If you want more strength, then sleeve the inside of the joint.
Excellent idea! Of course, the trick then would be to remove the weld so it looks like one piece. I'd bet Nomad could handle that with no problem. :D

Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build

Posted: Sat Aug 18, 2018 12:12 pm
by XLR8
just for giggles....
RC10 rear tube suggestion 4.jpg
RC10 rear tube suggestion 5.jpg

Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build

Posted: Sat Aug 18, 2018 11:20 pm
by jeepnut24
XLR8 wrote: Sat Aug 18, 2018 10:53 am
Excellent idea! Of course, the trick then would be to remove the weld so it looks like one piece. I'd bet Nomad could handle that with no problem. :D
That's how they sometimes handle it on 1:1 scale. :) Bevel the ends for a stronger joint and deeper weld.