RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

scr8p wrote: ↑Sun Jul 15, 2018 4:41 pm The ball cup popper offer.


emmARRpee_RC10CE_cleaning - 1 (2).jpg

In my experience that wrench always does as much damage as a pair of pliers. Perhaps I am not using it correctly.

Some progress from yesterday...

So clean! Your doing one heck of a job

I've said it before and I'll say it again; happiness is having an old RC10 to restore.
Really nice job!!

XLR8 wrote: ↑Mon Jul 16, 2018 7:44 pm I've said it before and I'll say it again; happiness is having an old RC10 to restore.

Quoted for truth!

Thanks!

I have to say I’m really enjoying working on it.

I’d like to get some of the more stubborn surface rust off some of those fasteners and turnbuckles.

Do you folks usually just replace that stuff with new or do you use a rust remover?

So far I have just used a toothbrush and scrubbed them with some very diluted Simple Green- then rinsed/dried.

I'd suggest replacing the rusty hex hardware. Those #4-40 screws are available from Fastenal in the original black oxide coated steel and they're cheap as chips. For the turnbuckles, probably could just clean them up then apply a light coating of oil to prevent further rust forming. There used to be rust removal and bluing kits available for gun restoration but I don't know if this is still available. If it is, the cost is likely more than a good set of replacement turnbuckles.

I use this stuff called krud kutter that is essentially phosphoric acid. It will remove all rust and put a gray or blackish coating on steel alloys.

If you want dark or black, you can use a cold blue gun blueing liquid. I picked some up for like 6 bucks at one of the outdoor megamart places.(Bass pro shop, etc).

Or buy new hardware.

jwscab wrote: ↑Tue Jul 17, 2018 7:55 am
... If you want dark or black, you can use a cold blue gun blueing liquid. I picked some up for like 6 bucks at one of the outdoor megamart places.(Bass pro shop, etc).

Cool! I hadn't messed with the stuff since the '80's and wasn't sure if it was still out there. 6 bucks aint bad, think I'll pick up a bottle since my CE and Graphite's t'buckles are getting kinda rusty again. Thanks Joe

I started reassembling the rear suspension.

Do you folks typically run the arms in the short or long wheelbase configuration?

emmARRpee wrote: ↑Tue Jul 17, 2018 7:35 pm I started reassembling the rear suspension.

Do you folks typically run the arms in the short or long wheelbase configuration?

The CE was typically assembled in the short wheelbase configuration.

You have it right.

I like to run short wheelbase for two reasons:
Increases rear weight bias and adds a little more understeer. I run on an old school type loose dirt track so rear traction can be a problem if it hasn't rained in a while.
SWB configuration causes the dogbones to be in-line with the transmission outdrives which reduces friction and wear. Axles, dogbones and outdrives will last longer.

Thanks guys- good info on the SWB configuration.


I got the front arms and shock tower cleaned up and installed.

Hey Folks-

So I started taking apart the transmission tonight and it looks like I need to get some bearings to replace all the bushings.

I need a new felt gasket too- the existing one started disintegrating while I was taking if off. The manual describes this part as #6566 felt dust shield. I can't seem to find them available anywhere. I did see one on eBay that is made out of foam.

Also- could someone help by recommending where to get a full set of bearings for this car including the transmission? It seems like most of the sets I have seen refer to the RC10 Classic or RC10 Worlds. Would the bearing sets for the Worlds car include bearings for the Stealth transmission? Or did those cars already have those included with the kit?

Thanks!

For Stealth transmission bearings your best bet, and price is to get them from AVID. They don't have a "kit", you'll have to buy them individually.