RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

KidAgain wrote: ↑Wed Feb 06, 2019 8:26 pm Anymore recommendations guys, how about my swaybars, shock oil weight and so on anymore tips.........................

I'm no expert on on-road car tips, but I did a bit of an on-road re-engineering project way back when, myself, converting a Kyosho Turbo Optima to an on-road car, my CYANide project. It turned out to be a much bigger challenge than I expected. Narrowing the track width of an offroad car, and keeping it 4WD was probably the biggest amount of work. Different arms and custom hybrid CVDs had to be sourced & made, something I see you've also done. For shocks, I needed to make them a lot stiffer than what would be typical for an offroad car, so heavier weight oil was necessary, and stiffer springs so that the shocks would uncompress properly. Your idea for the sway bars looks excellent. I don't think it matters if the sway bar is mounted ahead or behind the control arms, if adjusted right, they'll work properly either way. I had to re-think mine, tweaking the adjustment of the stock rear sway bar and removing the front one completely...with the narrower front arms, it just wasn't possible to include the stock sway bar.

At least you started with a DS, which is already an on-road chassis to begin with.

Thanks for the insight bud much appreciated.

I made a big mistake and ordered this trying to turn nds to a regular ds.. now I need a stealth transmission.ugh

acrazyjohnny wrote: ↑Sat Feb 09, 2019 9:06 pm I made a big mistake and ordered this trying to turn nds to a regular ds.. now I need a stealth transmission.ugh

No biggie man just got to dish out another 30-60$ to get one. I need one for my other DS also

Okay I just put one together with new parts purchased from eBay except for the ball diff gear assembly with out drives which was used but great condition from the pictures.

Stealth case #6565-$6.29
Idle gear #6579-$4.98
Thrust spring #6582-$4.20
Direct drive shaft #6561-$12.23
Gear adapter #6562-$4.78
Used diff & gear assembly complete-$30.00
Bearings-$16.29

Total- $ 79.40

Not to bad but still stings.

Bearing upgrade in progress also got the servo in

Maybe some new tire options for the factory rubber and foam wheels?

Foam wheel:








Rubber wheel:








Foam wheel on left Rubber right:



Creative gluing is required on the foam wheels but it will work since I have done the same on my Tamiya Group C car.

More to come.......................................

Mocking up locations for electronics:

Electronics wired and installed







She’s alive, still waiting on the gold anodized stuff.

https://youtu.be/-EcYtxXedi0

So what are the sources for the foam and rubber tires! Would love to know!

I’ll post up info as soon as I glue them on and test so no one makes the same mistake if these don’t work.

One other issue I’m having is the 68 hpi camaro body I can’t get the rear wheels in the wheel well even with the shorter wheelbase, anyone have any bright ideas for me?

Yep, i got two easy suggestions and a third not so easy for you.

1. The rear arms have a spacer that allows you to alter wheelbase by about 5mm depending on placement. If placed on the rear of the hub then you can shorten wheelbase. I cant tell from your photos where yours are placed. If you have them in short wheelbase mode then here is another suggestion...

2. Rear suspension mounts. Your are mounted on the first hole. Try mounting them on the second hole. The arms will move forward thereby shortening the wheelbase. You may or may not run into motor/suspension arm clearance issue. Judging by your photo i believe there is enough space.

A 3rd suggestion is a bit more aggressive and requires more work. Trim off the front of the chassis. This will require repositioning the mounting holes as well. This worked best for me as the front end of my mid engine build is different than the stock kit.

Thank you sir for the ideas I went with option #2 I’ll take a picture of the cvd’s angle for you tell me what you think bud.


You can see I went from almost perfect cvd alignment to this.

That is actually fine.

If you take a stock DS and set it for the longer wheelbase your cvd/dogbone will be in near perfect alignment.

If you shorten the wheelbase by placing spacer in back of the rear hub then you get the slight angle you have now.

Here is a photo of my stock RC10DS nitro. The LEFT rear wheel is setup for short wheelbase. The RIGHT wheel is setup for long wheelbase.

As you can see, the (left) short wheel base position angles the CVD/dogbone towards the front as yours presently does. This is okay.

Well after your idea the body was fitted and I’m happy with the fit, now to figure paint scheme.