RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

radioactivity wrote: ↑Sun Mar 31, 2019 12:23 pm This is what I use
Slip u-shaped part of wrench between bearing holder and diff tube.
Remove nylon bushing opposite the gear
Place gear end down.
Take blunt end of drill bit and tap the tube out
Chuck

One of my bike bearing cone wrenches might work for this. They’re flat and have a large surface. Thanks.

Spray some WD40 first in there, wait half and hour and it will slip out effortless with the right tool. Good luck!

I always 'gently' used a couple pairs of pliers with some aluminum or plastic in the jaws to slightly twist the hub and gear which usually loosened the gear right off.

Hey guys, thanks. I eventually popped it off by wedging a plastic scraper in there. I didn't want to get any solvents on the plastic pasts, and was disassembling so I could dunk all the metal parts in kerosene, which is what I do most of my cleaning with. I used to scrub plastics with kerosene too, until I read I might be drying or weakening them.

My next hurdle is the micro screws on the idler gears. Since most everything is metric here, I'm going to try and get my hands on a 0.9mm Allen. I've seen some sold online as both 0.9mm and 0.035" so I figure it should work.

Truth is the imperial units are giving my quite the workout! (EDIT: Maybe should say US units.)

Bakauata wrote: ↑Mon Apr 01, 2019 9:41 am Hey guys, thanks. I eventually popped it off by wedging a plastic scraper in there. I didn't want to get any solvents on the plastic pasts, and was disassembling so I could dunk all the metal parts in kerosene, which is what I do most of my cleaning with. I used to scrub plastics with kerosene too, until I read I might be drying or weakening them.

My next hurdle is the micro screws on the idler gears. Since most everything is metric here, I'm going to try and get my hands on a 0.9mm Allen. I've seen some sold online as both 0.9mm and 0.035" so I figure it should work.

Truth is the imperial units are giving my quite the workout! (EDIT: Maybe should say US units.)

You are correct sir, the small screws in the idler gears are indeed for a 0.035" which is exactly practically 0.9mm. The other allen key key with a metric equivalent is 0.050" which is 1.3mm, these are used on the front shock pin retaining set screws, wing button set screws and servo linkage set screws. Also on original pinion gear set screws.

5/64" is metric 2mm but If I recall there are none of these in the original car, and only the diff screw on later stealth transmission cars.

Ok, so every screw and e-clip (OMG) has been removed and the car is disassembled down to the last piece; except for the infamous 0.035” screws in the idler gears, and the shocks which will be a separate job.

The metal parts have already been through a soak in kerosene, but tomorrow will be a scrub and degrease day for the plastics and tub.


Finally found out what this spare is; an anti roll bar.


And I happend upon a lot of spares!


Amongst the “spares” is an almost complete Graphite Team Car in excellent condition, and a fairly complete Championship Edition in pretty poor shape, with six gear transmission, almost full ball bearings, and no wheels. Neither has a body.

The CE is going to combine into the car I’m already restoring. In fact I’m already halfway stripping it down. The Graphite is a future project.

Also in the box was a kyosho Rampage GP 10 in excellent condition. It barely looks to have been run, and it came with loads of spares. It’s complete except it doesn’t have an engine. So now I need two O.S. CZ replacements; one for my Stinger and now one for the Rampage.

The last car in the lot is a Schumacher Nitro 10 truck which is missing the steering assembly and, even though it came with a replacement bracket, the original front end has been cracked. The R10 CE front had been grafted onto it in the worst way.

I’m trying to figure out if the Irvine 15R engine in it can be adapted to fit the Rampage.


I also got five motors in the bundle: 4 Reedy Mr R’s, and a Kyosho mega something.


Sorry about the extensive post, but I had to share (and my wife doesn’t get it).

Wow, nice haul!

Hey, wait a minute... I thought you said RC parts were hard to come by in Argentina.

Oh, I get it...

APRIL FOOL.

Bakauata wrote: ↑Mon Apr 01, 2019 11:11 pm Sorry about the extensive post, but I had to share (and my wife doesn’t get it).

Then perhaps you should build her a car?
It's easy to get hooked on RC after you've driven one.

XLR8 wrote: ↑Mon Apr 01, 2019 11:45 pm Wow, nice haul!

Hey, wait a minute... I thought you said RC parts were hard to come by in Argentina.

Oh, I get it...

APRIL FOOL.

I swear I’d never seen anything like this for sale before, and suddenly I’ve come across 4 used RC10s in only a few days. The 4th is a nitro truck at the Salvation Army which I’ve decided to pass on.

Please don't apologize for an extensive post. I come here for information and camaraderie. The more time I spend in here, the better. That looks like a great haul. There's almost nothing better than picking up a box of RC stuff and getting to dig through it. Keep the updates coming.

Thanks.

Here are both cars fully disassembled. Chassis, plastics, metal parts, shocks and transmission elements in separate containers.


This reminded me of this cartoon I never understood as a kid:

Hi. So I've had the nylon parts soaking in water for a couple of days now, but I didn't put the shock struts in there too.

I figured these are fiberglass, and I know water causes delamination of fiberglass in boats.

Was I right in assuming this?

nah, they are pretty tough. they can handle water, alcohol and acetone pretty heartily. Not that I would soak them for months or anything. a couple days would be fine.

Posting an update on these.


I finally decided to disassemble all three RC10s and build two cars with the best parts from the three. I think I have parts for the following:

1 Cadillac / CE mix of parts on a gold pan chassis. Six gear transmission with ball bearings. Bushings at the axles. Black capped top fill shocks.
1 Team car with stealth transmission. Full ball bearings throughout. Team car shocks. I'm not sure if I want to build this one on the graphite chassis or on the other gold pan. I'll weigh them later, but there doesn't seem to be much of a difference in the hand.

From what I've noticed so far, in order to build a third car, I'm missing two dog bones, a couple of Teflon bushings, two nose brace tubes, two front wheels, and likely a bunch of fasteners and connectors.

Currently have one of the bodies soaking in nitro fuel to see if I can remove the paint. Tried brake fluid over the weekend with non luck. It may have been old.

Weighed the gold chassis vs the graphite chassis. There is a substantial difference. It won’t make much of a difference to me, but I’m definitely going to be building the graphite for other reasons. Grams on the left, ounces on the right. I’ve never built an RC10 before, so let me know if I’m missing some part to make the match even.


Trying to strip the paint off the body has been giving me some trouble. Tried various old dot4 brake fluids last weekend, with no luck. Maybe they were just old.
Then I found a bottle of whiskey marked “thinner” in my dad’s barn, and since I figured it was most likely marked “thinner” just so no one would drink the whiskey, I decided to try it on the wing which was already fairly broken. Well, that was the end of the wing, so I made a mental note to not strip paint or drink from anything marked “thinner”.

Currently getting much better results using 16% nitro fuel. But it still needs work.