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From looking at the T4.1 FT manual, they look close. But without having actually compared the two its hard to say if they are compatible.

Here are some links that might have more info:

https://img2.associatedelectrics.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/RC10T4.1/Factory_Team/t4.1ft_b4.1ft_manual-preflight.pdf

https://www.associatedelectrics.com/factoryteam/parts/details/7484-ASC7484-ft_v2_1_10_shock_rebuild/

RS Chris wrote: ↑Sat Aug 03, 2019 10:37 am From looking at the T4.1 FT manual, they look close. But without having actually compared the two its hard to say if they are compatible.

Here are some links that might have more info:

https://img2.associatedelectrics.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/RC10T4.1/Factory_Team/t4.1ft_b4.1ft_manual-preflight.pdf

https://www.associatedelectrics.com/factoryteam/parts/details/7484-ASC7484-ft_v2_1_10_shock_rebuild/

Thanks for the links!

jwscab wrote: ↑Tue Jul 16, 2019 8:46 am if you already have the shocks and just need to rebuild them, you can just buy O-rings and reuse the plastic parts. you can get the rings in lots of places, I usually buy them in large qty's from mcmaster-carr. 1/8" ID, 1/4" OD. O-rings (orange) 9396K11 $3.55/25

@jwscab and the original poster ......I tried a bunch of McMaster-Carr O-Rings since my work has an account with them and they are local to where I work. I did pay for them on my own ....bought 3 different types, a bag of the above orange o-rings, some white buna-n o-rings and a bag of like 50 buna-n x-rings and I just wasnt very satisfied. All in all I ended up spending around $27 total for this experiment because I also bought a bag of 100 of the o-rings used on the RC18T shocks which were way expensive compared to the 1/10th scale ones and sadly they did nothing to stop the persistent leaking from those garbage 18t threaded aluminum bodied shocks I spent a lot of money obtaining.......Anyway back on track.....
If you notice by looking at the spec sheet for the orange silicone o-rings the durometer (softness reference measurement) is at 70 which is a lit firmer than what we use from associated. This caused some sticking action in my shocks in every single shock set I tried them in. The car or truck could be driven but never really felt righ......

*Oh and by the way a quick way to reference this particular size o-ring (1/8" ID, 1/4" OD) O-ring is by what's called a "Dash Number" that's the standard they use for o-rings everywhere I've come to find out and these o-rings are "Dash Number 006" searching like this will always get you this particular size w/o getting the dimensions mixed up.
The reason the O-rings were making my shock stick is because they were too hard and it was especially exaggerated with the X rings I got which were a durometer of 75 ....they need to be softer with a lower durometer number as the ones from Associated are Durometer 50 silicone. Frustrated I had spent almost $30 on this experiment and came up short I decided to keep looking and came across these on ebay, they are dead nutz identically the same as what you buy from associated even the durometer number of 50 is the same, they have the same look texture and feel ......annnnnnd they work absolutely flawlessly. Not to mention you can BUY 100 of them shipped to your door for what youd pay for 8 from Associated. $3.98 + $3.16 shipping and you're dialed. Trust me these o-rings are the answer to all my prayers since I have a total of 7 Team Associated Buggies and Trucks and I drive them all regularly.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F152941488048

You can service your shocks like a madman with a bag of 100. All of my vehicles shocks work superbly.

For those that didn't want to read the long message I posted here's the short version I found the identical set of O-rings that they use for Team Associated shocks on eBay here's the link a bag of 100 cost the same as a bag of eight that you buy at the hobby shop they're exactly the same and work great!

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F152941488048

yes, the durometer is a little harder. I use green slime and coat them up with oil before I use them. I'm no professional racer so they always seemed fine to me. thanks for that link, i have it bookmarked.

btw, the description say 50A, and then later on, 70A.

Thanks for your sacrifice!

arndogg wrote: ↑Fri Aug 02, 2019 4:21 pm Are the internals in the 7482 V2 rears the same as the original rear shock? would it be possible to just swap the threaded bodies and bottom seal caps while I rebuild my old ones?

The 7482 V2 shocks bodies will work . Just have to use the V2 spacer for the red O-rings .

jwscab wrote: ↑Mon Aug 05, 2019 9:36 am yes, the durometer is a little harder. I use green slime and coat them up with oil before I use them. I'm no professional racer so they always seemed fine to me. thanks for that link, i have it bookmarked.

btw, the description say 50A, and then later on, 70A.

I assure you they are 50A .....I've squeezed them back to back with my previous attempts and these are MUCH softer .....so far I have rebuilt the shocks on my B3, B4, T3, T4.1 a d did a buddy's RC10T and these red o-rings have been working flawlessly, no stichton, no leaking and perfectly smooth. I don't have any green slime so I use dielectric grease and these o-rings have withstood not bbn only the track a use but I've done a few oil changes along with pulling out the shock shaft to change pistons and/or add limiters and still working like OEM AE o-rings!

Now if only I could locate a source for the kyosho o-rings that are 50A then we'd be in business.....but I'm glad I could help anyways!

If you guys buy a pack of 100 you will not be disappointed!

Anyone interested in a link to bulk ceramic diff balls for associated riffs? I recently bought a set of 25 from a non rc related company and it cost me like $8 for all 25. Did 2 riffs with ceramic balls and they are working great as well!

I'm definitely interested in the link for the ceramic diff balls

I was thinking about directly replacing my Rc10T shocks out right with something modern and readily available to preserve my original T shocks. I tried the links for this build http://www.reedyrace.com/ae/spotlight/pages/RC10T_Van/index.html
But certain parts aren't available. I see proline has sets for short course in the right lengths, wonder if those would work? Anyone know what I need in a kit without ordering every single small part from say a T6.1T parts manual?