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Thanks fellas.....one questions though, and if you already mentioned it, please forgive me- the On the Aconsola sprinter, it has tabs for mounting a bracket, which is attached to the wing? On thw Woobie sptiner, there are those little cap things sticking up- would one just drill holes through the center of the wing, and attach it with screws, or is there another way? Thanks.

Scott

On the ASCOT cars, I bolted to the front mount directly and used Dubro 4-40 links on the back of the cage. You can then use spacers and long 4-40s through the top of the wing to adjust the rake.

On the BBT cars, there were Lexan L-brackets or angles that mounted to the bottom of the wing and then to the tabs, similar to current sprint wings from Custom Works. They are easy enough to make and can be fairly adjustable, too.

here are some pics of unique sprint cars. nobody seems to know who made these they are custom but i managed to find 2 of them 1 w/ fiberglass and 1 w/ graphite chassis. both have the front bulkheads mounted on old cheetah 10 degree castor wedges which are a great improvement rather than just flat mounting them.

are those plastic molded cages?

oh please, someone tell me who makes them/where to get one!

JK Racing wrote:are those plastic molded cages?

oh please, someone tell me who makes them/where to get one!

http://www.customworksrc.com

i couldn't seem to find any cages on their site, so here's the link to ones at tower.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNTK3&P=SM

they make them in different colors now, too.

I started tearing it down today and messing with the front suspension. I notched one of the caster blocks so I could turn it around for the appropriate caster angle. The problem is that the steering arm now hits the a-arm because it is tilted too far in the other direction. I'm not sure what angle is in the caster block, but it is too much. I put a set of 30 degree blocks on there as those have the kingpin perpendicular to the hinge pin and so nothing binds, but the front end is perfectly square, no caster.

The steering setup as I got it has some rediculously long tierods with direct servo steering. The chassis has holes that appear appropriately spaced for bellcranks, and I would rather use a traditional bellcrank setup.
The problem is that the holes are only for 4-40 countersunk screws, not the usual 8-32 that I have seen on most bellcrank setups.
The only one I know of that has 4-40 hardware is the mip setup, but that has a shoulder on the post to fit inside the 8-32 hole. Also the flat chassis has no step down to the nose plate which does not allow for clearance for the end of the ballstuds protruding below the steering arms.
Any ideas on what to use?
I'm thinking I could just put a couple washers below the posts on the mip setup, but haven't tried yet.

once you put the ball studs in the steering bellcranks, grind the threads off on the bottom so they're flush with the bottom of the bellcranks.

that's one thing i absolutely hate about the mip bellcranks. the other is how they actually mount to the chassis.

the caster blocks you have look like the stock 15 degree ones. i eyeballed a protractor aginst my computer monitor since you posted a nice juicy close up. on the fitment of the mip bell cranks and the mounting tube here is what i did to solve that problem. one time during a hard crash i tore the puniy 4/40 mip screw completly through the chassis and came up with this. i ditched the whole aluminum mounting tube and slid a piece of 3/16 aluminum tube over a long 3/32 screw and used that instead. i made sure to cut the tube exactly the same legnth as the stock mip tube and measured it with calipers. then also shimmed the bottom up off the chassis the same distance as the mip mount with some 3/16 wheel shims and topped off with a 3/32 nylon nut. it works great and have raced it like this for 5 years now with zero problems.

advance engineering had a sprinter back in the day as well, but from what i can make out it was just a re-boxed ascot car. mine came as a kit with the body, chassis, cage and nerfs, and the adv engineering alum wheels and tires.

wyldbill wrote:here are some pics of unique sprint cars. nobody seems to know who made these they are custom but i managed to find 2 of them 1 w/ fiberglass and 1 w/ graphite chassis. both have the front bulkheads mounted on old cheetah 10 degree castor wedges which are a great improvement rather than just flat mounting them.

I was rackiing my brain too reading it trying to remember...... and Scr8p hit it, CustomWorks. They made/make some sick dirt oval and spint cars. i remember seeing the ads in old RCCA mags and thinking they were pretty sick but VERY expensive.

Nice car. looks pretty cool!



momo

MOmo wrote: CustomWorks. i remember seeing the ads in old RCCA mags and thinking they were pretty sick but VERY expensive.
Nice car. looks pretty cool!
momo

It appears that customworks is aiming to make a more budget minded sprinter in the near future.

the cars i posted are not customworks cars even though they have customworks cages on them. i thought that when i bought them but i have been told they never made an enforcer with a standard rc10 front end. they have very clean cut or machined chassis that use the similar c.w. pencil graphite for chassis material. they are just really well built sprinters built in small runs buy some small company or 1 man shop. but they are still very cool and realistic lightweight cars and certianly conversation pieces.

some updated pics.
The cage and transmission cleaned up really well. I used simple green for the grime, then one of these dremel purple finishsing buffs and then some 4-0 steel wool
The nylon parts were yellowed. I dyed them blue to try a red/white/blue theme, but the blue parts all look kinda scratched and dull. I think I may just go with black nylon and rpm arms and ball cups, and use the blue parts on another build.

Nice, clean build. Turned out great.

Thumbsup!