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First pic - nose assembled in LWB configuration, it won't stay that way. Wheelbase is too long.
More time than I'm willing to admit getting it aligned in all 3 axis.
Second pic - more trimming, tapping threads and a light coat of black paint.
I still need to address a nose support, need to try and get creative as the B6 support probably won't work.

Chuck

Excellent craftsmanship Chuck. As always.

Thanks Doug!

Full trial fitment of front suspension .
I wasn't exactly sure how all this might fit so I have been ordering a few parts at a time. Probably, in hindsight, I should have purchased a donor B6.
As well as everything has been lining up I am more commited to not going to plan "B" or should I say the Worlds front arms and B4 caster and steering blocks.
So ballstuds, turnbuckles, ball cups, a tower and another top plate are on order. The top plate attachment still has me scratching my head a little.
The attachment of the top plate to the chassis in the pic below will not be the final decision. Too much material had to be removed and too much strength lost in my opinion.


Chuck

Loving this!

Great work so far

This is a cool project! Any updates?

very cool project....amazing work and detail

Thanks guys!

Before proceeding to add a few new parts, I thought to check the actual total camber at the arms.
The 91656 bulkhead has 2 camber settings. One position will yield 25 degrees and the other 30 degrees.
Broke out the miter saw and cut a scrap piece of wood at 25 degrees. The same as the bulkhead setting.
Laid the chassis on a flat surface and slid the beveled piece of wood under the front arm.
My luck held out again.

Chuck

Two steps forward and one step back.
Really more like several steps forward...
Tower, 3.5mm titanium turnbuckles, HD ballstuds ,HD ball cups, shocks mounted, toe-in adjusted, camber adjusted, caster blocks and steering blocks mounted.
The 6221 steering blocks with the larger ballstuds and larger ball cups interfere with the inside edge of the wheel near full turn. 9577 steering blocks have a longer arm and offer better clearance so I think I will order some.
At the rear, similar problem but easily solved by swapping B4 rear hub carriers side to side giving more clearance between ball cup and inner wheel.
Set kick up at 30 degrees. Length and width at maximum.
Still pondering on the best solution for attaching front brace to chassis

Chuck

nice work! maybe u can come to C'dale this winter and race it on the rug!

Looks great Chuck. Like it came from the factory.
So, what's the issue with the front brace to chassis connection? It looks fine to me. The brace is plastic so it's going to flex, right?

I guess my concern is that I removed 2/3 of the end that attaches to the chassis. In my worst case scenario I envision the thin piece of FRP snapping and folding up the nose.

Option #1
I considered welding/brazing a verticle 3/16 tube, drilled and tapped, at the connection to the chassis. It would be plenty strong and could use the brace unmodified.
four possible negative outcomes
1. My brazing is iffy at best, not a good idea
2. Would have to trust someone else to TIG it
3. Would ruin my paint job
4. The "fix" would be right where most bodies are the tighest fit.
So potentially the best solution, welding, is probably out.

Option #2
I have a second brace that could be cut similar but retain a little more structure. Now that I know exactly where the brace "lives" I could do better but not great.

Option #3
Completely cutting off the arms on the top plate
Hopefully bend 3/16 aluminum tube that runs from the OEM nose brace mounting on the chassis to the area just behind the attachment point for the front tower on the back side of the top plate.
It would be a fairly difficult bend and would be very close to steering. Also bent tubing isn't all that strong.

I am open to suggestions. Though without the car it's not easy to see options.

Chuck

Thanks for that explanation Chuck.
I've never had a B6 in my hands before so I've just been looking at photos of its front suspension and frankly I'm surprised that you gotten that front brace to fit as well as you have. It's definitely not made to fit a first gen RC10 tub, that's for sure.
I would suggest having a custom part 3D printed but it might actually be weaker than your modified part.
You've set a very high bar with regard to overall design. I'm afraid that anything I could cobble together wouldn't look very good.

And after a good nights sleep

Option #4
A new top plate, a heat gun, clamps, dremel, sandpaper, a clean flat surface and a full morning of trial and error.
Think I have a satisfactory amount of material without sacrificing any strength.
It took a while but I'm happy with the results.
Newly remolded top plate in top pic on the left and the two bottom pics. First attempt (fail) top pic right.
Planing on filling the two rear mounting holes on the top plate with black JB Weld plastic epoxy then drilling two horizontal holes to attach at the original nose brace mounts.

Chuck

So you've warmed the legs of the brace and brought them closer together?
Anyway, it certainly looks good and with a little JB magic, it should be just as strong as before. Well done sir!
Wonderful stuff that JB Weld. I used some to repair my failed air handler motor back in February. Saved me 600 bucks plus the service call.

Yep, pretty much heated and brought together. The only problem was they wanted to twist like a pretzel.
So clamps, spacers, 3mm rods, heat, dremel and some cussing...
Got some 9577 steering blocks and a few other parts on their way, they should fit better allowing better clearance.


And the final product

Chuck