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I know your not done....but dont forget the sensor wire

RC10th wrote: ↑Sat Feb 13, 2021 6:47 pm Might be hard to drive like that, weight over the back tires is your friend, especially with a pan car. Can you use a saddle pack and make the holder mount to the nerf bars and shock mount?

You are killing me with logic!

I have been spending my RC time on a couple of 12Ls and DR10 so I haven't given this one the time it deserves. I don't like the front battery setup although it is symmetrical. The front weight bias isn't what I want. I don't want to go to saddle packs at this point because, well, they are limited and $$$ for the sake of being saddles. I need to move a semi-standard 2S pack to the back ..................... just need to figure how!

And just when I got the contrasting yellow parts figured out!

I had to revisit this rig. This was the one that got me back in the hobby! When I got it, I thought this would be the only 1/10 pan car I would own, so I thought modernizing it with brushless and printed parts was the way to go. But now, just short of two years later, an probably 15+ 1/10 pan cars later, I have realized that I did this car wrong! This was a legit local racer, and I received it in racer condition, and I screwed it up!

On top of that, I have sourced parts off of it over the past couple of years as it wasn't a priority, and again, that just ain't right!

So, with a long weekend in front of me, and kinda between projects, project "put it back like you found it" is in operation! I scrounged through a lot of parts today, and shockingly still have 90% of the parts that I pulled off this thing. The original Rx is on an original 12L right now, and is proper where it is, so I can't use it, but a work-around is in progress. But the original ESC, motor, and various mounts are all accounted for.

Hopefully a nice little side project for the long weekend! A little rebuild of a rebuild.

Well, what I thought would be a couple of hours of replacing some minor parts ended up taking quite a few hours, and I haven't even touched the body. Didn't realize the stock pan has holes for a smaller than stock steering servo, so had to dig one out and pretty it up and shorten the cable. The original motor wiring is cut tight, like there is not an extra 1/4" in the motor leads, so had to work that out, and had to disassemble the top plate on the rear pod to get it all sorted and mounted up. I also didn't even take the time to clean this rig up very well at all the first time around, so this time around, most everything saw the ultrasonic and got cleaned and greased as needed.

I feel much better about the chassis though. I did not do it completely as the PO did in regards to the rear suspension for two reasons. 1) I could find the original shock cylinder, but could not find any matching 11mm pistons to go with it, so I went with a different stock shock, and 2) the PO did not run the rear pod "slider" arrangement, and I just thought that it should be there, so I installed one.

I was going to finish up the body decals this afternoon, but another little RC fun showed up in the mail which grabbed my attention. I hope to get the body done in the next couple of days.

Bravo for reinstalling the brushed setup. It belongs in there!

Wow, seeing that lexan antenna holder brings back some memories.
I still have my old 10L but I've borrowed nearly all the electronics for other builds. I really need to reassemble the car like I raced it bitd.
Great post!

XLR8 wrote: ↑Sat Dec 31, 2022 9:27 am Wow, seeing that lexan antenna holder brings back some memories.

I personally LOVE the lexan antenna extender! I put one on my Round Tracker, and tried one on the Top Fuel but it ended up so horizontal in the body that it was worthless, so went with a tube. I am convinced that on all pan cars (at least 1/10) that I own, this will be the standard. I usually go with the holes to walk the wire up the plate, but the PO on the 10L just went with the slits, so I followed his course.